Friday, September 16, 2011

Install Glass Block Windows In Basements And Bathrooms

Increase privacy at home or in the office with glass blocks.


Glass block windows, in the basement or bathroom, provide an extra level of privacy and security without blocking natural light. The blocks have additional benefits, including an increase in energy efficiency and privacy. Glass block windows are built flush with the interior surface. This eliminates problems such as water collection, mildew, rot and condensation. You can build a dryer vent into the block window or add a hopper style air vent to increase airflow through the basement or bathroom.


Instructions


1. Mix mortar to a bread dough consistency following the manufacturer's directions. Put some of the mortar on the edge of a glass block then turn the block upside down. The mortar should stay in place. Trowel a 1/2-inch layer of mortar, called a bed, onto the treated window sill.


2. Put an L-spacer against a bottom corner of the block and a T-spacer on the other bottom corner.


3. Set a 16-inch expansion strip against the inside edge of the window, called the jamb. Set the block with the L-spacer against the window jamb. The expansion strip is between the block and the jamb. Set a T-spacer between the top corner of the block and the jamb.


4. Butter one edge of the glass block with a 1/2-inch of mortar and add a regular spacer to the top corner above the mortar. Add a T-spacer to the opposite bottom corner. Set the block against the first one so the regular spacer and mortar are between the two blocks.


5. Repeat step 4 until you get to the last block in the row. Set a 16-inch extension strip against the jamb. Cut the subsequent strips with scissors so they fit between the spacers.


6. Butter the edge of the block and add the spacers as you've done previously. However, this time set an L-spacer on the bottom corner of the block that goes into the window corner. Set the block on the sill.








7. Level the blocks with the 2-inch level as you work. Use the rubber mallet to gently tap blocks into place. Repeat this process periodically as you work.


8. Remove excess mortar with a foam brush and fill in voids with more mortar. Do this on both sides of the window panel and repeat after completing each layer of blocks.








9. Trowel a 1/2-inch bed of mortar over the tops of all the blocks. Do not get mortar on the smooth, upright legs of the spacers.


10. Place a glass block, without mortar, against the extension strip and the window jamb. The block sits on the spacers that are already in place. Add a T-spacer to the upper corner where the block meets the jamb. Repeat steps 4 and 6 to complete the row.


11. Remove the T-spacers from the blocks on the ends near the jambs. Apply a 1/2-inch bed of mortar to the tops of all the bricks.


12. Bend a panel anchor, 4 inches from the end, into a 90-degree angle. Embed the panel anchor halfway into the mortar, with the short end against the jamb. Do not allow the metal to touch the glass blocks.


13. Screw the anchor into the jamb with two 1-inch zinc-plated pan head screws and the drill. Repeat steps 12 and 13 on the other end of the window. You may need to add more mortar to cover the panel anchors. Replace the T-spacers.


14. Embed the panel reinforcing halfway into the mortar. Do not allow the metal to touch the blocks. Cover the entire row of blocks and overlap the panel reinforcing by 6 inches if you need more than one.


15. Repeat steps 4 and 6 to 10 to construct the remaining rows until you get to the last row. Insert expansion strips between the jambs and the blocks as you work.


16. Twist the spacer end tabs off one side of the window and only on the second-to-last row of blocks.


17.Install the first block, without mortar, against the jamb. Spacers are not used for the final row of blocks. Butter both sides of the next block and set it beside the first block.


18. Bend a panel anchor, 4 inches from the end, at a 90-degree angle.


19. Place the long end of the bent panel anchor along the second block and slide it into the mortar between the lower blocks. Screw the short end across the top of the empty opening with two 1-inch zinc-plated screws.


20. Repeat steps 17 to 19 to complete the row. Press mortar into voids and remove excess mortar with the foam brush. Add expansion strips between the top row and the window header.


21. Let the mortar set for an hour so it is thumbprint hard, this means you can leave a thumbprint in the mortar and the mortar doesn't come off on your thumb. Twist off all the spacer end caps on both sides of the window.


22. Smooth all the horizontal joints, then the vertical joints, with the striking tool. Repeat on the other side of the window. Rinse both sides of the blocks with a damp sponge and a bucket of water. Rinse the sponge frequently.


23. Let the mortar set for three hours. Remove film from both sides of the blocks with a dry, soft cloth or a plastic scouring pad.


24. Apply white silicone sealant, with a caulk gun, around the perimeter and both sides of the window.

Tags: both sides, corner block, bottom corner, panel anchor, Repeat steps, 2-inch mortar