Hot Tub not getting hot after recent move
I recently connected this HotSpring Hot Tub to my new place an after having it connected and refilled the water it will not get hot AT ALL. I am not sure if it is the heater element, filter, etc. The hot tub turns on, all the jets are working at full power, but the water never gets hot. Some information on my hot tub: HotSprings Model Sovereign Ratings: 230v, 60Hz, 50 Amps Heater: Is made by Watkins No Fault 6000 Here are some photos of my wiring. I never changed any of the wiring at the hot tub, so if there is something wrong with my wiring it would be wrong at the sub-panel. Any one know how I can trouble shoot this problem???? Close-up of sub-panel Wiring at Sub-Panel Main Panel It looks like you might have it wired 110v not 220v I'm assuming this. I'm guessing the tub is 220v, it looks like your wiring is coming from same terminal. Verify at heater that you are getting 220v yeah, it 200v, but I dont have a way to measure it. I believe that is your problem, you can get a cheap volt meter under $20.00 need to test at the spa. But then wouldn't the double pole 50a breaker next to the breaker for the spa also not be supplying 220v? Not if it is wired wrong and only pulling from one pole, thats why I suggested testing it. With the 4 black wires there is a pretty good chance its wiring. Since it worked before the move... if you take a look at your sub panel , the red buss bar is not feeding the breaker , both of the gfci breakers are 220 vac but neither are connected to both buss bars [ look at the red wire black wire this is where the buss bar feeds the breakers in order to have 220 vac the breaker must connect to both buss bars steve The sub panel is a panel supplied by Hot Springs for this particular spa. The incoming line voltage (red, black and white wire) IS wired to the panel correctly. although the red wire is connected to the left and appears to not be connected to any breaker, the bar all the way to the right that is empty is the same one that the red wire is connected to, so it should be connected to the 20 amp breaker to the right. Does that sound correct? Also if I want to test the voltage, where exactly to I test it at. I know I have 220 coming from the main, but do I test it at the subpanel or at the actual tub inside the IQ2020? ok i see it , must be getting old, test both line terminals on your sub panel should show 230 vac then test feed through the 2 pole breakers should also show same voltage , if not either a breaker is not feeding through on the one leg or the breaker is tripped on the one leg [ can be hard to see, as some breakers trip only one leg and it looks to not be tripped, if you check only one leg to neutral or ground it will only show 115 vac .... by the way the numbers in themself can be somewhat confusing from what ive been told on the east coast when working with electricity they commonaly refer to 110 vac or 220 vac and in the middle of the country is commonally refered to as 115 or 230 vac and on the west coast its 120 vac or 240 vac ..... anyone else seen this ? The voltages you mention and their difference depends on transformer configuration. For example 240 volts is the old standby motor voltage, (factory) probably fed from a delta transformer configuration. A newer voltage/configuration is 120/208 more for residential. No problem though, as anything you hook up will operate properly within all these different voltage windows unless otherwise marked for specific voltages. There are all kinds of motors that run at 200 volts. (german) anything we buy at the depot should be ok. It does raise questions though! Be sure to read all nameplate data! I am only getting 110v from my main panel. Does that mean that something is wrong with my 50amp breaker? It could be a bad breaker, or it could be where the breaker is located in the panel. The 50a breaker that's next to the spa breaker... What does this breaker power? Did you move this breaker to make room for the spa breaker? Does this breaker have 220v coming out of it? Hhmmmm Who said it was voltage issue from the start??? 22 yrs in the business gets me a star every now and then... You need to test voltage coming off of breaker where wires screw in. If you get 220 there then it is in your wiring from spa. If not and onl 110 then its your wiring into panel, could be where wires come out of main panel. You could be only pulling one pole (110) instead of both (220). Does the white wire that is coming from the hot tub from the 5th position in the IQ2020 control board, does that connect to the 20 amp or 30 amp breaker in the subpanel? I had it connected to the 20 amp, but I dont seem to have power going to the heater, and when I connect the white wire to the 30 amp breaker, the 20 amp breaker trips. what gives? no voltage to the white wire. I have 110v going to #1 thru #4 each but nothing to the white (#5). What voltage do you read at the 3 points indicated in the pic? (C indicates the 2 black wires coming off the bottom of the breaker :-) wait... let me check this again. I am getting 220 at all three locations. Ok, so then it's not a voltage issue or how the breakers are wired up. One last wiring possibility. On your last picture showing the wiring on the spa. The white wire is connect to terminal 5, and going right to left, with the white wire connecting to terminal 5, they're considered numbered 5, 4, 3 ,2 ,1. Ok, the 30 amp breaker should be wired to terminal #1 and #3 (and I believe this is the breaker for the heater). If you test between #1 and #3, do you also get 220v? While were at it, testing from terminal #2 to #4 should also read 220v (from the 20a breaker). Additionally, you can see page 19 of the owners manual here; http://www.hotspring.com/cgi-bin/dow..._manual_02.pdf It looks like I have everything wired correctly, so I must have a problem with the heater maybe. I dont see water flowing through the tubes when I turn on the hot tub. Unless there's air or debris in the water, you wont be able to notice it moving. At this point, it sounds like the problem is either the hi-limit switch or heater element. I want to thank everyone for examining my wiring, after all the wiring and voltage was correct, I still was not getting heat, and on another forum, someone suggested to find the reset button on top of the heater. I have a No Fault 6000 heater, the old one, not the one with the trumbone shaped tubes. There is a reset button under the two tubes, which is concealed under a piece of clear tape. When you peel the tape back there is a red button. All I did was depress that button. About 2 hours later I measured the water temperature with my food thermometer and it was 86 degrees and then about an hour after than it was 91. I also noticed that you dont see much flow of water through the two tubes on the No Fault 6000. I was expecting to see thick flows of water through those tubes so I was concerned that something was wrong with the heater, but apparently that is the way it is.
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