Aprilaire 600 Installation Questions
All, I wanted to install an Aprilaire 600 humidifier in my house. Just want to confirm a few things. 1) In you look at the overall.jpg(link below), I have marked two places on the vents where I think the humidifier should go. Does that look fine? I believe It is above the AC coils(if it matters). 2) In you look at the overall.jpg and drain_pipe.jpg (link below), I have circled the floor drain pipe that is used by the AC. Can I tie into the same for the humidifier drain? I would use the top part of the pipe. The reason that I ask is because I noticed some people saying that the AC pipe can get clogged. Also, some people are saying that the floor drain should have a trap. Does anybody know where to look for the trap? 3) I was thinking this for the wiring: HUM to W only. -- I only want the humidifier to run when the heater turns on, not the fan. Com to Cf on control, Run a jumper from C to Cf. Then R from furnace to R on control. Does that sound correct? 4) I have cpvc pipe installed, so I wanted to T the hot water line. So, it is fine to cut it with a hack saw and then install a T? You can see the hot and cold water line in the water_pipe.jpg(link below). Also, would I just run the new line perpendicular to the existing one and then an elbow with another pipe leading straight down to the humidifier? 5) Can IAQ stat with the Aprilaire humidifier? I know the IAQ offers more options and control. Sorry for all the questions, but trying to get it right the first time. Overall Image - Yfrog - 1005087je6.jpg Drain Pipe Image - Yfrog - wc3scrnshot031309154400.jpg Water Pipe Image - Yfrog - waterpipe Thanks, Ashish I forgot to mention that I have a Payne PG9MAB furnace. Regards, Ashish I'll get with you on Thursday.. it's getting late for me. Originally Posted by ashishm02 1) In you look at the overall.jpg(link below), I have marked two places on the vents where I think the humidifier should go. Does that look fine? I believe It is above the AC coils(if it matters). Looks good, are you putting the unit itself on the return, and bypass above the A-Coil? I would suggest doing that. 2) In you look at the overall.jpg and drain_pipe.jpg (link below), I have circled the floor drain pipe that is used by the AC. Can I tie into the same for the humidifier drain? I would use the top part of the pipe. No, I would not use the top part. Since I'm suggesting to mount the humidifier on the return, run the PVC pipe around the back and down to the floor drain.. A trip is not needed. 3) I was thinking this for the wiring: HUM to W only. -- I only want the humidifier to run when the heater turns on, not the fan. Com to Cf on control, Run a jumper from C to Cf. Then R from furnace to R on control. Does that sound correct? Sounds good. 4) I have cpvc pipe installed, so I wanted to T the hot water line. So, it is fine to cut it with a hack saw and then install a T? Yes, make sure you clean up the cut so you don't get any shaving into the line. Also, would I just run the new line perpendicular to the existing one and then an elbow with another pipe leading straight down to the humidifier? You can do that, are you putting on a shut off valve before you go down to the 1/4 supply line? 5) Can IAQ stat with the Aprilaire humidifier? I know the IAQ offers more options and control. Yes, it can. Aprilaire's control is taken out of the picture. Originally Posted by Jay11J Looks good, are you putting the unit itself on the return, and bypass above the A-Coil? I would suggest doing that. Yes I am putting the unit on the return return side(located on the right hand side in the overall image). I will put the bypass, which will supply the air to the supply side. Originally Posted by Jay11J No, I would not use the top part. Since I'm suggesting to mount the humidifier on the return, run the PVC pipe around the back and down to the floor drain.. A trip is not needed. Just wondering, but why is the top part not good? Can you please look at the below image, to see what I want to do. The line I drew shows how the humidifier drain pipe will be routed to the drain. Are you suggesting that I route the humidifier drain pipe on the other side? Also the reason that I wanted to use the top part is because the pipe hole is already there, I just need to remove the cover. But, if you think it is not right, please let me know. http://img11.imageshack.us/img11/6541/overall2.jpg Originally Posted by Jay11J You can do that, are you putting on a shut off valve before you go down to the 1/4 supply line? I am sorry, but I do not understand. Are you saying that I need to put a shut off valve at the supply(hot water line)? Why is that necessary? Can you please look at the below image to see the path I am planning the water line to follow. http://img193.imageshack.us/img193/6728/waterpipe2.jpg Again thanks so much for your help. Thanks, Ashish Originally Posted by ashishm02 I will put the bypass, which will supply the air to the supply side. It's not supplying the air to the supply, the air is going to come from the supply side, go over the pad, and into the return. Just wondering, but why is the top part not good? That cap is for cleaning/service of the drain line from the A/C. Are you suggesting that I route the humidifier drain pipe on the other side? Yes, or you can run it in front of the Coil case, then drop it down the side. and T on to the line. I am sorry, but I do not understand. Are you saying that I need to put a shut off valve at the supply(hot water line)? Why is that necessary? Yes, you need a shut off valve between the main line and the humidifier. That way you can shut the water off to the humidifer if you need to service it/replace the filter on it, and shut it down for the summer. Are you going to use copper line or the pex? (Plastic) I was out of town for a few days. Thanks for the response. Originally Posted by Jay11J It's not supplying the air to the supply, the air is going to come from the supply side, go over the pad, and into the return. Sorry that is what I meant. Originally Posted by Jay11J That cap is for cleaning/service of the drain line from the A/C. Oh, I did not know that. Then, I will put a 'T' near the bottom of the drain pipe. There is already a 'T there, but I will put another one above it. Does that sound fine? Originally Posted by Jay11J Yes, you need a shut off valve between the main line and the humidifier. That way you can shut the water off to the humidifer if you need to service it/replace the filter on it, and shut it down for the summer. Are you going to use copper line or the pex? (Plastic) I will install the shut off valve. I was thinking of using a brass ball valve. Does that sound fine? Also, I was thinking, since I have cpvc pipe now, I would use pex for the water supply to the humidifier and for the drain. Does that sound ok? Once, I get your response, I will try to install the humidifier next weekend. At first, I will make the cuts to the hot water supply and drain pipe. After that is all done, I will make the wire connections to the circuit board. And finally, I will cut out using the template and mount the humidifier. Thanks, Ashish Originally Posted by ashishm02 I was out of town for a few days. Thanks for the response. No problem. There is already a 'T there, but I will put another one above it. Does that sound fine? Yep, you are good to go. I will install the shut off valve. I was thinking of using a brass ball valve. Does that sound fine? Yep. Also, I was thinking, since I have cpvc pipe now, I would use pex for the water supply to the humidifier and for the drain. Does that sound ok? I'm not a big fan of non-copper supply line, I just hear one too many events of the line coming undone at the compression fittings, I'd strongly suggest copper. I suggest the PVC pipe for the drain. Jay, HUM to W only. -- I only want the humidifier to run when the heater turns on, not the fan. Com to Cf on control, Run a jumper from C to Cf. Then R from furnace to R on control. Does that sound correct? I didn't get a chance to install the humidifer yet. I am planning on installing it this weekend. I called Aprilaire to find out what gauge wire I needed to use. At that time, I also asked them to verify that my wiring understanding looks good. They said that W/G from the control should go to the HUM on the furnace. They also said that CF from the control should go to the COM. However, they said that I need a separate source to power the Humidifer, Humidstat, and the solenoid(which I am not using). They said that having a wire run from C on the control to the CF on the control won't work. They also said that do not connect the R from the control to the R from the furnance until I was 100% sure that the furnace can support 10 VOLT AMPS. They said that is how much is needed in order to power everything. I know that you know this, since you have been doing this for a long time. However, I just don't want any issues with the furnace, which is a PG9MAB(Payne). So, would wiring C on the control to the CF on the control and R from the control to the R from the furnace provide adequate power to the humidifier/humidstat. Also, there shouldn't be any damage to the furnace itself? I ask since there is no place on the furnace that says that the R can support 10 VOLT AMPS? Lastly, just to confirm, I do not need the transformer that came with the humidifer, right? Thanks for your help. I just want to make sure I am not making any mistakes. Regards, Ashish Originally Posted by ashishm02 However, they said that I need a separate source to power the Humidifer, Humidstat, and the solenoid(which I am not using). I've had a few people here do the jumper from C to Cf----C on furnace, and then R from R on furnace and had no issue. But if the furnace acts up on you, then we need to add a transformer for R and C. Jay, Thanks for the response. On the t-stat control, what does the cf control? The reason that I ask is because, shouldn't the C on the t-stat go directly to the COM on the furnace? I am just trying to understand what role the CF plays and why should the wire go from CF to COM and not C to COM. Thanks, Ashish On the humidistat, from what I understand.. R-Power for display/control C-Common for display/control W/G-letting the control know to turn on the water valve. Cf- Common for W/G. So as long we are using the same 24 volts transformer on the furnace, you can jumper C and CF then run a wire to C on the furnace to any of the two. Thanks Jay. I believe that I understand now. Just last question. Is it fine that I am not using a solenoid valve? I am using sharkbite fittings, shut off valve and copper tubing. Thanks, Ashish Originally Posted by ashishm02 Just last question. Is it fine that I am not using a solenoid valve? You need the solenoid to shut off the water flow to the pad when humidity is not needed. I am using sharkbite fittings, shut off valve and copper tubing. No problems there. Thanks Jay. Sorry, I meant that I am not going to use the saddle valve. What type of wire do I use with the install? I went and bought 16 gauge wire. This wire has two wires inside it, therefore I was planning on using just one of them and leaving the second one alone. Is this fine? Should I be using another gauge wire? P.S: You have been a lot of help. Thanks for being patient... Regards, Ashish 18 is what used most of the time. but 16 is just fine. Ok, was worried about the valve, and thinking oh man, your water bill is going to be high! hehe So 18 AWG will be enough for the HUM/COM/R? I thought the R would need a lower gauge(12 or so)? Thanks, Ashish Nope, heavier gauge is not needed.. 18 is what used pretty much all the time, unless the wire is a long run, then go the the next heavy wire. Jay, I finally got it installed. Thanks so much for your help. It seems to be working fine. I see the humidity rising in my house. Just a couple final questions: 1) When I feel the hot air coming out of the registers in all my rooms, it seems to be with less force then before. Is this normal, since the air is being taken from the supply side to the return? 2) The damper on the humidifier is not really that great. I put it in Summer mode, but I still feel a lot of air going coming through. This is because the damper isn't a snug fit for the hole it is sitting in. So, in the summer, will there be a lot of loss due to this? Is there anything else that can be done to avoid any air loss in the summer? Again, thanks for all your help. Could have not done this without you. Regards, Ashish Originally Posted by ashishm02 Jay, I finally got it installed. Thanks so much for your help. You're welcome! 1) When I feel the hot air coming out of the registers in all my rooms, it seems to be with less force then before. Is this normal, since the air is being taken from the supply side to the return? Shouldn't notice any changes in the air flow.... Close the bypass damper and see what happens. 2) The damper on the humidifier is not really that great. I put it in Summer mode, but I still feel a lot of air going coming through. This is because the damper isn't a snug fit for the hole it is sitting in. The damper is not going to be tight, and yes will get some air coming around the damper itself. No harm with this.
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