Cedar deck maintenance
I built a cedar deck last year (approx 300 sq ft). Stained it with a semitransparent stain from (I think) Behr (Home Depot). I can't imagine that the wood hadn't cured, but in a large section (over 3 - 4 boards), the stain just bubbled up and peeled off. Now, after a year, the stain on the high traffic parts of the deck is wearing off. My primary question is prep the deck for refinishing. Sanding the entire deck isn't an option, because the decking was put down with screws, so they can't be set deeper into the wood. I've read that power washing is an option, but will require going over the deck with a sander (although that would be light sanding and, therefore, feasible). I've also read about using TSP and bleach solutions, but that seems to be more for mildew, which is not a problem in this case (yet). So, has anyone found the magic bullet? (I'm in Nashville, in case there are any regional solutions.) My second question is what to use once I've prepped the deck. I know there are opaque stains (that sound like they're paint, right?) and semitransparent stains (more like what I think of as a woodstain, right?) If I've got those right, I like the idea of a semitransparent stain. Otherwise, I'd have built the deck out of pine. Consumer Reports likes Wolman and Olympic semitransparent stains. I've read about Sikkens, too. Is there any consensus? Eric ericbro, It appears that you have done your homework and know the pro's and con's. It seems that you need to make the decision as to what you want to do. This is a general article I preapred so use what you like, The preferred cleaner/brightener for cedar or redwood is an oxalic acid wash. Scrubbing or LIGHT pressure washing will help - I say light pw cuz cedar is softer than PT lumber. One product I have used is made by Flood and available either HD or Lowes. Look at the caution labels and search for oxalic. It needs to be rinsed off very thoroughly. You probably saw TWP, available in limited areas. It's good, as is Cabots, Sikkens, Wolmans, Readyseal, and Superdeck. The clears are less protective than the toned stains due to less or no UV protection. The ADM product is a new epoxy coating- untested as yet for durability. Take a look at this, this product is all-in-one. No need to wear yourself out in doing different applications. Great stuff! http://www.deckstore.com/woodsealer_info.htm http://www.deckstore.com/woodsealer_facts.htm Contrary to popular belief, waiting 6 - 12 months is not necessary and can actually damage the wood. Old myths are hard to change but I try. UV Rays begin working on a deck immediately breaking down the wood fibers. We recommend to give your deck a good quality sealer as soon your deck is build. If you prefer a semi-transparent stain, wait 3 to 6 weeks (depending on season). Letting a deck sit for 2 to 3 months is enough to start the greying process, great if you want that look but get on it before then to ensure you get the best look with a sealer and/or stain. During the Spring and early Summer most P.T. woods tend to be very green because of demand, give the wood a extra 2 weeks before applying any sealer or stain. Fewalt recommends sealing this within 2 - 3 weeks, despite what your sealer manufacturer says. Remember to clean it off good and apply a quality penetrating oil stain,. A few good ones are Cabots, Sikkens, Wolman FP, SuperDeck, ReadySeal, and TWC. One with a tint and uv protection would be best. Hope this helps!
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