Bathroom plumbing can refer to three distinct projects. It could mean simple repairs to temporarily or permanently stop leaks. It can entail a total fixture upgrade meaning sinks, toilets and tubs will need to be replaced. Or, it can refer to the addition of a much needed extra bathroom to the home. Each project requires different steps and significant attention to existing pipes, drains and water sources. Basic repairs are not difficult to complete. Replacing fixtures and adding a new bathroom are more difficult to complete.
Instructions
Existing Fixtures
1. Unclog sink, toilet and shower/tub drains. Rely on plungers or drain chemicals to loosen simple clogs. Use an auger that can cut through more resistance, or if you feel materials are stuck in a bend in a pipe.
2. Flush away toilet problems. When toilets don't have enough water in the tank or continue to "run," there are several troubleshooting steps. If water runs continuously, adjust the wires and the chain so that the tank ball drops straight into the valve. If water spills into the overflow tube, slightly bend the float arm down. If water continues to run after flushing, bend the float arm upwards. If the tank flushes only partially, shorten lift wires or chain to make the tank ball rise higher. If the tank leaks, tighten connections for the water line.
3. Stop sink drips. Compression faucets have a stem that allows water to flow or not when you turn the handle. Washerless faucets rely on the movement of a handle to turn water on and off. Problems in both can be attributed to failed valves, O-rings, washers and other moving parts that can be repaired with basic tools. Remove the failed parts with wrenches, screwdrivers and pliers, and replace with new supplies.
4. Repair tub faucets. Tubs also can have compression or washerless faucets. These are repaired in the same way as sink faucets. An added part that may need attention is a diverter, which is the valve that switches water from pouring from the spot or streaming from the shower head. If worn, a diverter should be replaced.
5. Fix the shower head. Slow water flow does not mean the head needs replacing. Sometimes minerals from the water are clogging the holes and restricting water flow. Unscrew the head and let it soak in vinegar. Use a toothpick to unblock clogged holes. For hand-held shower heads, check the tubing for holes and slits. It is better to replace the entire unit than trying to repair the hose.
Replacing Fixtures
6. Remove the old toilet. Turn off the water supply and empty any remaining water in the bowl. Remove the water line from the tank and loosen/remove the nuts from the bowl base. Lift the bowl from the floor. Remove old wax gasket and plumber's putty from around the drain.
7. Install a new toilet. Insert a new gasket, add the new bowl and bolt to the floor. Make sure the bowl is secured and does not move. Attach the waterline to the tank and test the flushing mechanism and water flow. Make adjustments to the tank ball and wires if problems occur with water flow. Tighten nuts if a leak is found.
8. Change the sink. Shut the water supply and drain the faucet. Disconnect the sink from the water pipes and the drain pipe. Remove any anchor screws and lift the sink off its bracket if it is attached to the wall. If it is part of a vanity cabinet, it can be pulled away as a unit once you have detached it from the water supply and drain.
9. Install a new sink by reversing the process. If the new sink is to be attached to the wall, first check for wall damage, make any repairs, or reinforce the wall with a new joist. A sink attached to a vanity will slide into place. A pedestal sink will require new piping to allow the water to travel up the pedestal to the faucets.
10. Remove an old tub. Turn off the water supply. Disconnect the water line, drain and overflow pipe. Remove caulking from around the old tub. Lift or slide the tub away from the walls carefully so as not to damage wall and floor tiles. At least two people will be needed to maneuver the old tub out and bring the new tub in.
11. Install a new tub. With the space empty, this is the time to determine if any exposed pipes require repair or replacement, or if the joists require reinforcement or replacement. Slide the new tub into place. Connect the water supply, drain and overflow pipe. Caulk around the tub to prevent water from seeping around the tub and into the walls.
Adding a New Bathroom
12. Plan the job before making any additions. Determine if the home can sustain additional water pressure, drainage and hot water with the existing systems. Map out the current house system, including pipes, vents, the house drain and branch drains, and determine the size of pipes currently installed in the house. Mark the places on the walls where new water supply and waste lines must be located.
13. Support the new pipes. If new pipes are not supported with copper clamps, screws or wood braces, they will vibrate and eventually burst within the walls. Galvanized pipe needs support every 10 feet, plastic pipe needs support every four to six feet. Copper pipe needs support every six feet. Pipes that run close to a wall should include a metal protective strip between the pipe and the wall. This will prevent punctures from nails or other fasteners that are used to hang pictures or support shelves.
14. Install drain and vent lines. Check local construction codes for the required diameter size of these lines and where they need to be installed.
15. Run supply lines. Hot and cold water pipes are run side-by-side. They usually have a six to eight-inch gap between them to prevent hot water from warming the cold and the cold from cooling the hot. From these pipes, branches can be created for the toilet and tub/shower.
16. Test all connections. Before installing the sink, toilet and tub, and before closing the walls, check all connections. Turn on the water and look for immediate leaks in the supply lines. Check again several hours later. Also, run checks on the drainage system. If all is deemed leak free, close the walls and add the fixtures.
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