Using plywood as a subfloor creates a strong surface for laying tile.
Plywood is a commonly used subfloor surface for tile because it creates a solid, stable and level platform for the tile to adhere. In most tile-laying situations all you need is the plywood surface to begin laying the tile. However, because bathrooms are high moisture areas, these projects present an obstacle that most rooms do not. The plywood must be protected from the moisture present to avoid damage to the plywood and to prevent the growth of molds and mildew. Adding protection takes additional time, but it adds to the overall lifespan of your bathroom's tiled surface.
Instructions
1. Measure the surface being covered with the tile and divide the surface measurement by the size of the tiles you're using to get the coverage amount needed. Purchase the necessary tiles plus 10 percent to account for breakage and cutting needs.Draw up a plan for the tile placement that uses as many whole tiles as possible, with partial tiles lined against walls that are the least seen from the doorway.
2. Clean the plywood subfloor using a household cleaner suitable for wood surfaces. Remove any staples from the plywood and make sure to nail all nail heads flush with the plywood floor.
3. Check that the floor is level using a level bar. Drag the flat metal bar across the floor, marking any high or low spots for correction. Use a floor sander equipped with 30 grit sandpaper to sand down high levels even with the rest of the floor surface. Fill smaller low areas of the plywood with wood putty spread into the dips with a putty knife. Fill larger dips with a self-leveling compound, spreading the compound with a trowel and allowing it to dry according to the manufacturer's instructions. Remove any dust left over from the leveling process.
4. Remove the baseboard from the walls and set aside. Use a prybar to remove the baseboard, prying it from the walls at the nail locations.
5. Use a notched trowel to spread a layer of asphalt mastic over the plywood surface. Tilt the trowel on edge to raise ridges in the mastic by running the notches across the floor's surface. Wait 30 minutes to allow the mastic to set.
6. Roll a layer of 6-mm polyethylene plastic sheeting over the surface of the mastic. Overlap the sheeting 4 inches at the joints and place a strip of fiberglass tape across the flap end to hold it down. Cut the sheeting to fit using a utility knife. Spread a second layer of mastic over the polyethylene and wait an additional 30 minutes for the mastic to set. The plastic sheeting acts as a protective moisture barrier.
7. Mix a batch of thinset mortar in a bucket, following the manufacturer's instructions. Spread the thinset onto the subfloor in a 4-by-4 foot section starting against the bathroom wall. Use the same spreading process with the mortar that you used with the mastic. Place the tiles on the mortar, leaving a ¼-inch gap around the edge against the wall to allow for expansion of the tiles due to temperature changes. Add tile spacers around the edges of the tiles to create uniform tile rows. Check that the tiles are level with a carpenter's level, and make any corrections necessary by tapping the tiles into place with a rubber mallet. Cut the tiles when necessary using a tile cutter. Allow the mortar to dry for four hours before grouting.
8. Remove the tile spacers and apply the grout to the joints between the tiles. Place the grout onto the tile surface and push the grout into joint lines using a grout float. Clean the excess grout from the tiles using a damp sponge 15 minutes after the grout placement and then wait overnight for the grout to dry. Remove any grout residue from the tiles using a lint-free cloth, and wait 7 to 10 days for the mortar to cure.
9. Brush the tiles and grout with a tile and grout sealant to protect the surface from spills and add to the water resistant nature of the tiles. Allow the sealant to dry overnight before using the tiled surface.
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