Converting an attic to a master bedroom can greatly increase the living area in your home.
Converting attic space is a consideration when an extra bedroom is needed, but adding on isn't an option. A sizable attic can provide enough space to house a new master bedroom if the ceiling height is within the building codes for your area. The framework for the project is already in place, but structural strengthening for the floors may be required, as most homes are not build with the attic intended as a load-bearing floor space.
Instructions
1. Contact your local building department and request the codes and applicable building handouts on remodeling for this type of project. Special considerations will be structural requirements, codes on windows for sleeping areas and ceiling height requirements.
2. Assess the attic space and make a preliminary sketch of your room dimension and needs. Determine at this time if the floor is adequate, or needs to have increased structural strength. Consult an engineer if you are unsure if the floor is built for load-bearing. Determine if new heat ducts need to be run or simply add vents to existing ductwork, and be sure the heating system in the home can handle the extra capacity. Also check to be sure the dimensions from floor to ceiling meet the building code requirements. Consider all of these criteria when drawing up your plans.
3. Add the staircase if one does not exist and complete any major structural changes at this time such as adding or replacing floor joists and rafters. If you have structural carpentry expertise you can complete these items but unless you have done this type of project before it is best to have these major items completed by a qualified contractor.
4. Remove the existing plywood from the floor if it is not adequate for a subfloor. Most plywood attic flooring is too thin to support walking traffic --- this plywood should be 3/4 of an inch thick. If there was no flooring plywood, add it now by removing any mechanical items such as wiring or duct work before putting down the subfloor board.
5. Build the perimeter walls with 2-by-4 construction. Build your sections with 2-by-4 pieces nailed to bottom and top supports that are spaced every 16 inches on center. Create boxed-in sections for electrical fixtures, and box out any doors or closet areas you have in the plans. If a window needs to be added to make the room up to code, it should be done at this time during the structural carpentry. Unless you have a carpentry background, consult an engineer for a plan to add windows to an exterior wall as it could be load-bearing and needs professional consideration. Hire a contractor for this part of the work if you do not feel comfortable with adding a window or windows.
6. Remove and re-run or have an electrical contractor install new wiring in the perimeter walls and ceiling areas of the new bedroom space. Any wiring that was in the floor area should have been removed when the new subfloor was added.
7. Add or re-run any ductwork within the perimeter walls, and set any electrical outlets and light boxes in place.
8. Instruct the building inspector to check the progress of the work and approve continuation. Once the electrical wiring is in, a pass sticker is required for work to continue before walls are finished and sealed and it's too late for the mechanical systems to be inspected. If you progress without a sticker, the city may later require you to tear down drywall or insulation to inspect these items, costing you time and money.
9. Add insulation to your , then hang the drywall. Tape and mud the drywall, then sand, re-mud where necessary, and finish sanding. Adding in trim, doors and fixtures is the next step. Base moldings, doors and trim for doors, windows and closets can be added pre-stained or painted, or this can be done after it is installed.
10. Lay the flooring or have it installed. Paint the walls and finish the trim or touch it up if it was painted or stained before installation. Install the light fixture, switch plates and outlet covers.
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