Using large tile, like 16-by-16-inch tiles, helps the tiling go quicker.
Using 16-by-16-inch tiles on any surface tends to make the tiling job go faster, because you cover more surface with each tile. Chances are you will encounter vanities, faucets, light switches and towel racks when tiling a bathroom wall, so being prepared is essential to a smooth installation. Ask the manufacturer or retailer the recommended adhesive to use with the tile you are buying---getting this right will ensure your tile walls last for a long time.
Instructions
Preparation and Layout
1. Inspect the substrate of your bathrooms walls. Tile can generally be laid straight over drywall, plywood and concrete provided they are flat and level---if in doubt, cut ceramic tile backer board to size, using the utility knife, and secure onto the walls with a hammer and nails every 6 inches on center.
2. Measure the wall to find the center and snap a vertical chalk line up the wall at this point. Snap a chalk line every 16 inches out from the to give the approximate spacing of your tiles.
3. Dry-fit the bottom layer of each wall, spacing with tile spacers (small 1/16-inch spacers are best). Place a tile spacer between the first tiles and the floor as well. Mark the tiles needing to be straight-cut at wall corners or around such things as vanity bases and bathtubs.
Tiling
4. Mix your adhesive according to the manufacturer's instructions. Apply enough for two tiles starting from the center line like you did with the dry fit. Smooth on 1/8-inch thickness with the straight edge of the trowel, then furrow the surface with the notched edge. Set your first two tiles in place, spacing with tile spacers as you did for the dry fit.
5. Repeat along the bottom of all the walls, then continue working your way upward, marking tiles needing to be cut as you go. Mark tiles that cover areas that will need drilling, such as over shower heads or faucets. If the adhesive develops a skin on top, scrape the whole lot off and reapply new adhesive.
6. Cut tiles needing straight cuts with the wet saw. Gently guide the tile through the saw; don't apply too much pressure. Cut holes into tile, using the drill and hole saw or masonry drill bit, depending on the size hole you need. Cover the hole area first with masking tape, then turn the drill to the lowest speed and apply little pressure as you drill.
7. Butter the backs of cut tiles and set them in place individually to finish off your tiling. You can drill holes for towel hooks, light switches and the like after the whole tiling job is complete. Let cure for 24 hours.
Grouting and Sealing
8. Mix the grout, following the instructions on the grout packet. Apply grout diagonally across tile joints, after removing the tile spacers. Hold the grout float at a 45-degree angle to sweep the grout into the joints. Do not apply grout in the joint between the tile and the floor, or in joints between vanities, faucets or bathtubs and the like. Let set for half an hour.
9. Wipe off the excess grout with a sponge, then again let set for half an hour. Buff off the rest of the grout haze with the sponge. Apply a line of caulk between the joints you left ungrouted and smooth over with a damp finger. Let cure overnight.
10. Clean the whole tile job with a damp sponge and let dry. Apply three coats of tile and grout sealant to the bathroom walls, following the manufacturer's recommended drying time in between the coats.
Tags: tile spacers, tiles needing, with tile, 16-by-16-inch tiles, center line, chalk line