Use the same colorful glass tiles in subways on your bathroom walls for a look that's different from typical ceramics.
Glass subway tiles are clear, easy to clean waterproof tiles that are generally larger than typical ceramic tiles. Rectangular, as opposed to square in shape, some subway tiles give a translucent brick-like appearance to walls, allowing you to apply them like pavers for an appearance not normally associated with bathroom walls. They mount in place much as ceramic tiles, with a dry-set mortar that has a special additive which helps the smooth non-porous glass bond to the wall. Because they're made from glass, subway tiles are available in a large variety of colors, making your new tiled surface easy to blend into an existing decorative pattern.
Instructions
1. Examine the walls where you'll be setting the tiles for any cracks. Fill the cracks with drywall compound, stuffing it into the surface of the wall with a putty knife then scraping along the surface of the patch with the edge of the putty knife to level it out. Wait about two hours for the compound to dry enough to work with then sand it smooth so that it is flush to the surrounding wall with medium-grit sandpaper.
2. Clean the surface of the a pH-neutral cleanser and a sponge. Go over the surface of the wall with the sandpaper, if there's paint present, to remove the paint gloss for better adherence of the tile adhesive. Wipe the wall down with a damp cloth to remove any sanding residue.
3. Measure the length and width of the wall then use these measurements to set up a test pattern of the subway tiles on a clear surface. Use as many full tiles, as possible, to create your pattern and estimate the amount of tile cutting needed to complete the installation.
4. Mix a white dry-set mortar in a large bucket, following the manufacturer's instructions for the amount of water to add. Attach a paddle bit to an electric drill for mixing the mortar until it's the consistency of peanut butter. Add an acrylic add-mix to the mortar, following the packaging instructions for the amount to add by the weight of the mortar used. The add-mix will aid in bonding the non-porous glass of the subway tiles to the mortar.
5. Spread the mortar onto the wall, beginning at the bottom center of the wall and covering about 2 square feet of wall space, with a 3/16-inch notched trowel. Use the flat edge of the trowel to spread a 1/4-inch layer of mortar in place then drag the notched edge of the trowel through the dry-set to raise ridges.
6. Spread a light layer of dry-set onto the rear of the tiles then press the tiles onto the wall, working upward and then left to right. The extra dry-set layer ensures that the ridges in the mortar will not show through the glass of the tiles. Use tile spacers at the edges of each tile to create joints about 1/8-inch wide. Remove any mortar from the front of the subway tiles immediately by wiping it away with a damp cloth. Continue to place the tiles onto the surface in 2-foot square sections until you reach a light switch or an edge where a partial tile is necessary.
7. Shape tiles to fit around light switches by snipping through the tiles with tile nippers. Cut the tiles needed for the edges with a tile cutter.
8. Wait 72 hours for the mortar to dry.
9. Remove the tile spacers. Push grout over the tile faces into the joints with the edge of a grout float. Move the grout over the tiles and into the joints at an angle with the float to avoid displacing the existing grout. Wipe the tile faces clear of grout with a damp sponge. Wait two hours then clean the tiles of grout residue by wiping them with a lint-free cloth. Place a bead of caulk around the edges of the tiles, especially along any area that meets a moisture-rich surface, for example, a bathtub or sink. Smooth the bead of caulk in place with a fingertip moistened with water.
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