Wednesday, February 26, 2014

Installinvisible fence

Install-invisible fence


Anyone ever install an invisible fence? I'd rather not pay someone to do it if it's fairly easy and I'm not sure why it would be difficult. Thoughts? I haven't installed one in years, but it was not difficult at all, the last one I did install. If I recall correctly the main thing was not to get it too deep, nor too shallow. The fence should come with reasonably good install instructions, and if not, you can go to their website, or call their customer service if you have any questions. Personally I had little good experience with invisible fences, and wouldn't buy one again. I tried several different brands when I did try them. One thing to be sure of, is that your dog's collar batteries are never allowed to get weak, or the fence won't work. Let us know how it works out for you. Thanks for the reply. Could you explain why you didn't have good luck with them? It seems like they are very popular these days and I can't imagine them being so if they didn't work. The only negative I heard was from people who had very stubborn dogs who just didn't care about the shock. If a dog is on a dead run, he will not feel the shock, as the duration will be too short. I have suggested to other customers, rather than running line under driveways and sidewalks, etc., is to use a perimeter unit. You can set say a 100' diameter circle with the sending unit, put cute little flags up at that perimeter and when the dog approaches it, his collar will let him know in progression that he is getting close to it. It saves burying wires, digging holes and trenching. If he exceeds the perimeter, his collar will keep punching him until he returns to the circle, unlike the wired systems. One bad thing with the wired ones, if your dog should get out in a dead run (chasing a rabbit), he can escape unscathed, but trying to get back home won't be easy, because he will get zapped when he approaches the wire, and will stay outside, in possible danger. I looked at the wireless units but my concern was that any type of circular area would surely extend into my neighbors yard. I have a rectangular shaped yard and do not want my dog in the neighbors yard. Well Larry responded with some of the things I had trouble with, the other is that depending upon the dog's coat and the level of charge he/she receives, some dogs simply don't feel the charge. There are simply too many variables that can, and do go wrong with this sort of product. Rather than spend all the money on the invisible fencing, instead I used perimeter training myself, and never had a problems with a dog once trained. You don't say how well trained your dog is if at all...? An untrained dog will most often not even feel the shock as they are too busy running towards whatever their target is, as Larry mentioned. Proper training takes time and commitment, and with it, you would not need a fence at all, unless you will be leaving your dog unattended. I honestly wouldn't leave a dog unattended even with an invisible fence, the failure rate is much too high. With the training of all my dogs, when I work with them on perimeters, I use flags as well. It gives them an area that they can visually see and relate to what is off bounds. Until recent years, when disability forced me to stop doing some of the more disciplined training, all of my dogs were trained to voice and hand controls both off and on leash. Do let us know if it works for you though as I do like to hear success stories. Well, we have a 5 month old lab so she isn't very well trained yet but I am working on that. She listens pretty good inside but outside she doesn't listen at all. I'm not sure, maybe all of the distractions around. I've done some perimeter walking but I know it hasn't been enough. Once the weather starts to get a little better here soon and the yard dries out some I'll do it more consistently. I think it will be tough to train her b/c of all of our neighbors have dogs and she just wants to play with them all and I can't really blame her. Thanks for the replies. Bake, I would suggest getting her into a training class as soon as possible. She is at the perfect age to start seriously training. If you wait too much longer she will be a bit more difficult, though admittedly not hard to train. With my pups I start right away at about 6-10 weeks, or, as soon as I get them. Perimeter walking is a good start, but not true training. My methods are not well accepted by some people, because I do not believe in *treat* training. In my eyes, a good trainer uses praise, and affection, without getting silly, to train for commitment and dedication of the dog. I don't always have treats at hand, so don't think they are good to base training on...I want my dog to respond no matter what the distraction...because one moment's hesitation, can mean a bite or worse, a dead dog. I apologize here, if I seem brutal about it, but I have seen people who's dogs are *trained* get hit by cars, running out into the road, while their owner stood and shouted *come, come come* and sadly when they would not listen to the command to come or stay or halt, they met their demise. Most of these dogs were treat trained, or poorly trained overall. I think if you work with your dog, she will be a great and easy one to train as Labs are well known for their intelligence and dedication to their owners. Once trained you may not even need the fence, unless, as mentioned before, you plan on leaving her alone outside. Even trained, I don't personally believe in leaving a dog unattended unless behind a true fence. Do let us know how things go, and if you have any training questions, or suggestions, don't hesitate to start a thread about training her either. As I said, these are my opinions, and some may disagree with me. I have worked with K9s and guard dogs for many years, and though presently have a *Lap-ra-dor* who is totally spoiled, and not as well trained as she should be, so I am not perfect either! RhainyC, thanks for the advice, you've been quite helpful. I will look into a training class soon. Do you know of any good training books? I've read a couple so far but wasn't impressed with them. chandler mentioned these wireless units. I'm curious: What happens when the power goes off? Please tell me these circular units do not continue to zap the dog until power is restored and he is detected back in the zone. If it's perfectly safe, do they make compatible collars for small children? This would save lives if so, and IF it is as safe as they say. Core, I don't think it is a latch type switch, although you bring up a good point. Power goes off, machine loses latching capabilities, dog goes bezerk. Current customer has two channel zapper for his dogs. They learn to stay close by voice, voice, then zap. Originally Posted by bake545 RhainyC, thanks for the advice, you've been quite helpful. I will look into a training class soon. Do you know of any good training books? I've read a couple so far but wasn't impressed with them. While this method is NOT popular with some people, due to it's method of corrections, it has never failed me yet, and I worked with not only some of the best and easiest dogs, but also with dogs that were slated to be destroyed due to some really bad habits, up to and including biting. Here is a *cyberlecture* to read: http://www.koehlerdogtraining.com/ You can, if interested purchase the book, at most local bookstores, or perhaps one of the online sites. Be sure you are getting Koehler's standard dog training manual, and not the one for guard dogs, as they are two seperate books. One thing I need to stress with this training method, you must be consistant in both praise, and correction. Usually, or at least in my own experience, the dog only needs one correction, when properly done. I suggest you do your own research, and perhaps check the book out from the library, read it through, and decide if this method is for you and your pup. I can honestly say I have never once had a dog/puppy fail with this method, and once fully trained, they have all been totally reliable off least, regardless of the distractions. Hope this helps and do keep us posted. Thanks for the tips. I have actually tried some of the methods described, particularly the turning in the opposite direction when she is pulling hard on leash. The first time I did that she was very good. The next few times we walked she just didn't respond to it and continued to pull. I didn't try it much after that and I probably should have continued. She is very bull headed and strong for her size(low 30's #, 5 months old). My wife has a hard time walking her now and probably won't be able to when she's fully grown. I like what I read on your link and will probably order the book soon. I've read a few books so far and they were what I'd call feel good techniques that went against my intuitions but being new to dogs it was all I had to go with. Thanks Bake, As I said many don't approve of the techniques, but to put it simply, they work. One thing you may want to do, is look into any trainers in your area that use Koehler, or modified Koehler methods. In my honest opinion, it would be money well spent to have her socialized while training. Another thing is to be certain that you have your wife work with her once she is trained for basic obedience...if you don't, your wife will never have the command of her that is needed. It would be a great idea for you both to go to classes with her. Good luck and please feel free to start a thread about training if you have any other questions. Do keep us posted on her (and Your ) progress.








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