I have a Whirlpool Calypso washing machine that has (what I believe is) a clogged pump. Can anyone tell me step by step get at the pump to clean it out? I'm new to fixing home appliances. I tried disassembling everything inside the wash tub itself to try and get at the pump inlet but I'm stumped. HELP!!! Oh, the reason I believe the pump is clogged is because it did the same thing last year and after paying the service guy $80 just to come out spend 20 minutes to pull out a dryer sheet from the pump inlet. I'd call him again, but being a member of Michigan's unemployed million, not an option this time. Thank you Jennifer Granholm.
use a putty Knife and push in 2 clips 1 on each side between front panel and top. Clips are 2 to 4 inches from sides. pull up on top as each clip is pushed. top pivots up. remove 4 screws in front panel and take panel off. Tilt washer back aginest wall and remove 3 screws holding lower panel on. pump is black thoing with 2 hoses attached. If pump has 2 spring clips holding it on it is the old style and I would replace it with a new one with a motor and pump assembly. If new style remove 4 torex screws in black part of pump and take lint ball or sock out of it. Make sure the impeller turns freely as sometimes string will tangle around shaft. Put a pan under pump there will be water coming out. Did you take the basket out? if you did be sure there is nothing in the holes in back where the water drains out. usual problem is a bra wire stuck in one of the drain holes with a ball of lint on it.
Thanks for the help. I'll give it a shot tonight and post back if I run into any snags. I had taken apart the agitator, and stuff inside, all that is left inside is the steel tub inside the plastic one and the center piece. How do you like that technical jargon? I'll see what sort of damage I can do.
Alright, maybe Im just blind. Ater I tipped the lid back, I couldn't find the 4 front panel screws or 3 lower panel screws. Are there screws holding the back panel on? Is the pump on the backside of the tub or front? I apologize for my ignorance but, this thing looks like it's all one piece lol.
4 screws look where the clips are 4 philips or torex. screws spaced across top of panel. Pull machine out from wall and tilt back aginest wall and 3 5/16 screws in front of bottom panel under machine. Pump is in back of machine on right side as you look in it. Has 2 hoses connected. Hope this helps
Get model # from machine go to Sears parts and put number in and there will be diagram of machine also with top up look on inside of front panel and there is a complete test proceedure for machine. May even tell change pump. Not to sure about that though.
Thanks for the help, I'll be out of town this weekend but I'll give it a shot Tuesday and post my prgoress.
I have same washer - would not drain. After taking off the hoses etc looking for clogs and not finding them, I went on-line and learned about the bra underwire stuck in the hole where the check ball is supposed to seat problem. Sure enough, I flipped the washer on it's front and used a flashlight to see through the opaque plastic tub - that was the problem. Since there was no easy way to reach the wiresclog to remove them, I took the plunge and drilled a hole right in the plastic tub. I fished out the gunk, then re-sealed the hole with a rubber plug (see photo - I will try to upload one) plus a little silicone sealer. Washer drains fine and cost me about 20 cents to fix. I can go back and re-clean if necessary too.
The way I take out bra wires is to open top, take off tub ring, remove wash plate cap, take out 6 bolts holding washplate in, remove wash plate and look though holes in basket bottom, I have a pair of long forceps that reaches the wire and pulls it out. One machine I found 4 bra wires in it.
Tags: whirlpool, calypso, washer, help, pump, front panel, aginest wall, back aginest, back aginest wall, give shot, lower panel, panel pump
I have a Craftsmann table saw, model number 137.248880. The motor is shot and I need a replacement. The motor model number is RM871, 15 Amp, 5000 RPM. Thanks in advance for your help. Bob
Hello Bob, What would you like to know?
Parts are available from Sears for that saw. Go to Sears.com and search the model # in Parts. The parts listing does not show a complete motor, but has a breakdown for all the individual parts. I would call them and see if the complete motor is available.
I went to and called Sears.com and they have the entire motor ($95 with shipping, Ouch, the entire saw runs $169) or you can purchase bushings, shafts, bearings, etc. at a reasonable price. I would like to find a used or replacement motor but could rebuild it if necessary. Anyone know of other vendors that might sell a simular motor? Thanks for the help.
Belt drive or direct drive, 'stat?
Take your old motor to a motor repair shop, they're often funky hole in the wall type places, and they'll either fix it or sell you a new (or used) equivalent for a lot less than $95. Or get the exact specs(including size) from your motor and find an industrial surplus store where used motors are a dime a dozen. jc
If you have a sears craftsman table saw 137.248880 and the motor burns out, most likely the armature bearing is burnt and Sears doesnt offer it. Al you need to do is purchase a Timken bearing number P200PP and do it yourself. I had to chisel the old one out . It costs $8.00 verses $95 for a new motor!!
DTamm, welcome to the forums. In two years, hopefully the OP found his motor or fix. Good idea though on the bearing. Keep an eye on the dates, and you will be current with us. Hope we can help you, and you can help us on problems.
Originally Posted by DTamm If you have a sears craftsman table saw 137.248880 and the motor burns out, most likely the armature bearing is burnt and Sears doesnt offer it. Al you need to do is purchase a Timken bearing number P200PP and do it yourself. I had to chisel the old one out . It costs $8.00 verses $95 for a new motor!! DTamm - This is exactly what I need to fix my motor. I did a search, but I can't find that Timken bearing. Where did you find it at?
Hi DarkCity, You don't actually have to have a Timken bearing. You just need to match your bad bearing, so take it out if you can without destroying it and usually there is a number series on the side of the outer race. It may not have the name of the manufacturer, but the number series usually will indicate the manufacturer to anyone who is familiar with them. You can take the number and cross reference it to whatever manufacturer (bearing) is available. Either a motor shop or a bearing shop can help you with this, they'll have parts books for bearings with numbers for equivalent bearings from the different manufacturers. The other way is would be to measure the bearing, the diameter of the outer race, the diameter of the center hole, the thickness, see what kind of bearing it is (ball bearing or roller bearing, etc) and find a vendor of bearings. www.grainger.com is a good starting point, they have warehouses all around the country. jc
Grainger is a good source; only problem is that they are STRICTLY a wholesaler. They will verify that you are a business before they will ship you a part. I managed to get replacement bearings for my pool pump motor, but only by signing up with my business. They will not sell to retail individuals.
Sorry, I didn't think about that Grainger requirement. I guess I always owned a business when I went to one. But I don't remember them being very strict about that rule. I just looked at the registration page on their web site there are no real requirements unless you want to avoid paying sales tax (then you need a resale certificate). It looks to me that you could have a part time lemonade business on the front lawn and you could still qualify to purchase there.
I just called Grainger and confirmed that any business, any size, any kind, will qualify you to purchase from them. Also, if you don't have a business, they have something called an accomodation account that allows you to purchase anything shown in their catalog at the catalog price. So they've made it real easy...
Must have discovered all the $$$ they were losing. I took a quick browse and didn't see that on the website, so it must be an insider work-around that you would have to know. On the registration page the Full company name is a required block.
Originally Posted by Bobstat I have a Craftsmann table saw, model number 137.248880. The motor is shot and I need a replacement. The motor model number is RM871, 15 Amp, 5000 RPM. Thanks in advance for your help. Bob Hello, what do you need for help? A used motor OK?
Hi, I cannot locate a cross reference for the Timken P200PP mentioned in this thread. The rear bearing on my rm871 armature assembly needs to be replaced but I can't see the number on the side of the bearing. It is too worn out to read. Does anyone have the bearing number and/or a store where I can purchase this bearing? Also, how do I remove it? It's really stuck on the shaft. I'm afraid to chisel it out because I'll probably damage the surrounding parts. Will a bearing splitter work? Thanks!
From the web site, Timken® Products Catalog, I downloaded the ballbearings.pdf file. The code for P200PP looks to mean: P = loose fit 200 = single row, light PP = two seals Is that correct? It doesn't mention outside and inside bore diameters. Does anyone know what those are? I dont' think I have the proper tools to accurately measure this. Is it metric or in inches for the rm871 bearing? Thanks again.
Hmm, It seems this very old thread is attracting a lot of traffic with folks having the same problem with their Craftsman table saw motor. That Timken number relates to a bearing type and not a specific model. To match that bearing you would need to locate the number, either on the bearing cover or on the side of the outer ring. (Often need a magnifying glass and a flashlight.) If there is no number you would need a good caliper to measure the shaft diameter, outer race diameter and thickness. You should be able to find a caliper that would work at an import tool store for under twenty bucks. If is a 5/8 shaft many actually use a metric bearing number 6203 and if a rubber seal will be a 6203RS. 6203 refers to the size, the rest is window dressing. You should be able to get the size of that number online, it is one of the most common small bearings out there. A bearing splitter sounds like it would be a great tool but for some reason what is commonly called a bearing splitter is actually a backing plate that splits apart and fits in behind a bearing so a puller has something to grab on to. Removing bearings is as much an art as anything and requires some creative thinking and tools. In many cases they are just not removable without damage and this is mostly found on disposable assemblies. If you were able to provide a clear close up picture we may be able to offer something more specific. You can post pictures on a free host like Photo Bucket and provide a link.
Another way to remove a frozen bearing is to use a high speed grinder (or even a die grinder) with a grinding tip or a cutting disk. You could also buy a cutting disk adapter that will work with a regular drill. I've bought them (and 2 or 3 cutting disks) at Home Depot and used them to cut off padlocks. Bearing metal is real tough, I've actually only used a die grinder on a frozen bearing, but it's worth trying a cutting disk if you have a drill, it won't cost much and it's easier to control than a grinding tip. When you get to the inner bearing race, grind almost all the way through and then use a chisel to knock off the race. If it's melted onto the shaft you'll have to smooth/sand the shaft so the new bearing will fit well.
I took my old bearing to ABI Industries in Oakland, CA. They found a replacemnt bearing: Enduro 6200 z c3. I believe they measured the old bearing at 10mm inside dia, 30mm outside diam, 9mm wide. It cost me $1.50 for the replacement. I purchased a bearing puller on ebay for $25 so I still think I came out ahead. Sure beats buying a new motor when the old one is still usable. Beer 4U2
Sorry, the part number is Enduro 6200 zz c3. It took me less than 15 minutes to tap in the new bearing and slap the motor back together and remount. I powered it up and it seems to be running fine.
So I have the same problem everyone else did here. I have a 6200zz bearing ordered, have the old bearing off, but have never done this before. Any tips for getting the new bearing on the armature assembly? Thanks.
Here are some general suggestions for installing the bearing since I don't know what this motor looks like. If you have to install the bearing onto a shaft, find a short hollow pipe that's just a little larger than the shaft and will fit over it, put the bearing on the shaft (first make sure the shaft is smooth) as far as you can by hand...and then use the pipe as a drift, tapping it with a hammer. The important thing is to be pushing the pipe/drift on the inner bearing land (ring), not the outer one. If you have a pipe that's a good fit then you can tap the bearing straight down. Expect some resistance, but some medium hammer blows should do it. You shouldn't have to hit it as hard as you can, or use a giant sledge hammer. If your pipe/drift is larger than the inner bearing land(ring), then rest an edge(of the pipe) on part of the inner bearing land and tap once, then move the pipe edge around the circle of the inner bearing land tapping as you go. You don't want to c...k the bearing so try many light taps, always moving around the circle. If you don't have a pipe, use a drift or a punch, but it's just that much harder to keep the bearing from cocking. If the bearing goes into a round slot matching the outer bearing land (ring)...and the shaft comes later...you can fit the old bearing on top of the new bearing and tap on the old bearing to push the new bearing down into the round slot. This time you can emphasize tapping on the outer bearing land (ring) since that's where the interference is. Sorry about the c...k but this silly forum won't let me use the four letter word c..k even though it's a regular word used in the English language. To all the perverts reading this, sorry about that, you'll have to find your trills elsewhere. Try the washing machine forums.
Thanks JBCLEM. I got the bearing on with no problems. As an FYI to anyone reading this forum, I ordered my bearing from drillspot.com. It just came via UPS today and I ordered it on Tuesday night (2 days ago!). Funny thing is that the package came and when I looked over the packing slip, it came from a company several have mentioned here - Grainger. So...if you do not own a business and cannot register as a buyer at Grainger.com, just order from drillspot.com because Grainger must handle that website. Thanks for all the help. I just saved $65 buying the bearing versus a new armature assembly from Sears. Now I just have to put the motor back together and put it back in the table saw (fingers crossed).
The information in this thread was right on. I ordered the bearing on faith from Drillspot.com and had it in 2 days. My rear motor bearing was seized and would not pull off the shaft even with a bearing puller. I had to grind it off. The new bearing required only light tapping to get on the shaft. Table saw works like new. Sears must have bought a lot of motors with bad bearings.
Hello all... Interesting thread, and it's nice to see I'm not alone. My saw (Tradesman BT2502W with RM871 motor) died last night because the rear bearing seized. Today I found a local bearing supply that had both front and rear bearings in stock for about $5 each. They pointed me to the welding shop across the street where I was able to have the old bearings pulled and new ones pressed on; I gave the guy $5 (the high end of his suggested fee). Now the motor is reassembled, reinstalled, and singing! The bearings I purchased were ORS (a Turkish company), and were sealed, not just shielded. The part numbers were 62002RS and 62012RS. Cheers!
Heres the deal on bearings. Always always buy domestic equivalent bearing. Avoid Chinese bearings like the plague. If you can't read the number just give the bearing house the OD, ID, width number of seals on your failed bearing. You always want a dual sealed bearing or a sealed for life bearing. If you can't get the bearing off, the OD of the shaft will work for the ID of the bearing. Dake makes a great manual press for removing bearings. Quite useful for other projects as well. Do not buy shielded bearings. They are like a screen door in a submarine. Sealed bearing are usually rubber, neoprene or silicone and will keep contaminates out and prevent lock ups. Shielded bearing have a metal shield on both sides and are liken to a leaky faucet in reverse in other words allowing contaminates into the bearing. Its always a good idea to use an air compressor if you have one to blow all the saw dust out of the motors anyway when done with a project. Its just a good practice to lengthen the life of any power tool motor. Just be sure to bleed off the water from the tank that accumulates first. If you don't have a compressor a can of compressed air works too or use the blower setting on your shop vac. Just allow a few seconds in the blower position to remove contaminates from the hose. Some of the bad press about the Bosch 4100-9 is due to the bearing failing on the fan end of the motor. The fan pulls air in to keep the motor cool. It not only pull in air but contaminates. They still use shielded bearings. One retailer in Omaha replaces the shielded bearings on their new saws because they know they will fail eventually. Haven't gotten my Bosch but will do so in the spring. I have looked for reviews or even some place that stocks the Makita 2705X1 but they are scarce as hens teeth. The Bosch offers other nice features like the TS1002 TS1003. Rear out feed table left side extension. Hope this is helpful. An once of prevention is worth a pound of cure.
Thanks for everyones postings. My saw puked out this weekend and I was very close to bidding on a replacement motor on e-bay this morning. I stumbled on to your sight by luck and not having a lot of experience with motors or repairing anything myself . . . I'm pretty confident that once the bearing arrives, I shouldn't have a problem putting it in. If I do, I'll be back! It is good to know that there is resource like this available. Kudos to all of you willing to share! Thanks again!
Craftsman Table Saw 137.248880 Thanks guys.. I know this is an old thread.. but good information.. I picked up my bearing from Purvis Bearing Industries.. Part number 6200 2RSJEM SKF (Brand) about $10. I purchased the 2RS bearing.. (2 Rubber sealed bearing.. instead of the shielded bearing...) This only the outside bearing.. (Bearing at the brush end of the motor.) This is an easy job, but getting the old bearing off the shaft is fun.. I didn't have my bearing spliter, so I ended up cutting the bearing with a die grinder, and spliting it with a chisel.. Only hint.. is to mark the inner shield around the fan portion of the motor.. (if installed incorrectly it will cover the passageway for the fan.) Thanks again, Bryan
Hey, I have the same sutuation Model 137.218010 Serial RHV15 is the table saw numbers the motor Model number is Model RM872 and its a craftsman as well 10 table saw. I did have the motor tested and they say is the armature bad would need to get it rewond. Will this method work for what I have
I have a sears craftsman table saw (137-248100) with motor RM871. Am I mistaking or isn't the Bearing/Bushing needed a #8 87840081 oQRO?
Got my motor torn apart. Number on brg. is 62004, don't know brand. Local auto store has brg. and the number is 200cc like for $4.50 or a BCA 200cc for $14.00. My measurements were 9.95 mm or .3915 in. inside. Outside was 29.96 mm or 1.1795 in.. And the width was 9.0 mm or .3540 in..
Got motor put back together. Must of had a piece of the bearing shield caught in the winding some where. Burnt winding and armature. Bought new table saw at Sears for $169. They wanted $140 for new motor for old saw.
My kingdom (table saw) for a horse (bearing). Craftsman table saw and RM871 motor. I thought my motor had burned out, so I started looking at new table saws. I couldn't believe how cheap they are. The table extending clamps are cheap plastic, and the saw blade up/down, slant mechanism looks really chintzy. I figured the table saw I have now is of better quality than the new ones. I started researching the RM871 motor and found this forum. I than realized that my problem might just be a bearing. I got a Nachi-Fujikoshi sealed bearing (6200-2NE/RS/2RS) from E-bay for 6 bucks. I went to a local electric shop and payed $15 ($10 plus $5 tip) to pull the old bearing and install the new. When you pull the motor apart, use the blowups in the owner's manual, or take pictures with a digital camera to insure correct reassembly. Digital pictures of the on/off switch wiring and reset switch wiring also helps. My table saw is now running like it used to, and I am out only $21. I know this is an old thread, but please keep it open. I'm sure there are lots of RM871 motors ready to destroy their bearings.
The brg was bad. I could have replaced it but the armature had melted some. JUNK
On the RM 871 motor, I've got a new bearing on the brush end OK, but the rubber mounting (basically a cup formed piece of rubber) is unusable. It seems specific to this unit. I would welcome any source, even a scrap unit where the windings, armature, or bearings are shot, but the mounting is OK. Thanks.
Had same bearing problem. Got it through drillspot / grainger. arrived in 1 day. using dremel to cutoff old bearing. tapped new one on using wood block and hammer. Saw works fine. Thanks everyone for advice and for keeping thread open
To follow up on the RM871 motor bearing problem, Sears has parts for the RM872, including the brush end rubber bushing (mounting in my initial post). I ordered the 872 bushing and it fits the 871. Saw is running fine. Thanks for comments.
I need to purchase a new or used electric motor model 113.12172 or the newer motor 113.12202 115 volt, single phase. 1 or more HP. If necessary I could modify a motor so that it would fit physically. Let me hear from ya. Thanx
Originally Posted by rickluc Got motor put back together. Must of had a piece of the bearing shield caught in the winding some where. Burnt winding and armature. Bought new table saw at Sears for $169. They wanted $140 for new motor for old saw. I bought the same? table saw on sale for $100 from Sears.
Tags: table, motor, needed, bearing land, inner bearing, 248880 motor, back together, bearing land ring, bearing number, inner bearing land, land ring
Hello, I have just about 2 inches of red blown in insultaion in my attic. I would like to replace it with cellulose. How can I get the old insulation out? That's what's in my attic right now. Attachment 7187 I also noticed that the studs above my garage are double in height than the rest of the house. Can I add some studs to gain the same height ro fill it with insulation and put some boards over it to make a kind of walk way? On the right site the studs are higher.
Probably not necessary to remove anything that's there now. You might want to make sure (by checking with your cellulose manufacturer), but I think you could blow cellulose right on top of the blown fiberglas you have in place now. I did it about 30 years ago, on top of a few inches of rock wool, and didn't have any problems (although I sold the place 3 years after doing it). Yes, by all means raise the grade of the joists (they're not studs) to provide more room for insulation while giving you a good walkway/crawlway platform. I did that too, in a different house, later. You could add 2 x 6s directly on top of the existing joists, using vertical side-braces to connect everything. Would only need the side-braces on one side (every 3' or so) if you screw down the plywood sheathing before subjecting it to traffic. If your plan is to leave the plywood loose for later access (wiring, etc.), you should use braces on both sides of each joist, alternating them with eachother. Otherwise, there will always be a tendency for the added members to tip over if the loading above them gets too frisky. Looks like someone went crazy with vertical/diagonal rafter braces. You could perform a check to see if they are really needed, using a rafter span table for your loading conditions. If not really necessary, removing them would give you a lot more open storage space.
Looks like someone went crazy with vertical/diagonal rafter braces. Maybe not. It looks a lot like my house that has trusses for the major part of the house but hip roof rafters at each end or side.
The reason I would like to replace the insulation is: When I bought the house from an auction it was empty for one year and had an infestion of mice. I don't want to leave that knowing they pooped and peed all around. As you can see from the picture, there is also a lot of garbage in the insulation. I also would take the opportunity to seal every gap and check of the wires if they were damaged by the mice before putting new insulation in. The question about the joist is, if a second row of joists will hold and not weaken the whole construction because of the additional weight.
I'm with you on wanting to remove the mouse crap/pee. Maybe a practical way to remove the insulation would be to first shovel what you can easily reach into large plastic bags, then use a large shop vac to pick up everything that's left. Wearing a good respirator, of course. Hanta virus is often transported by air-borne mouse urine spores, and can be fatal. I wouldn't worry about the additional weight of adding 2 x 6s to the tops of the existing joists (unless they are already extremely over-spanned). A 12-footer installed @ 16 centers only adds about 5 PSF of weight, and if installed by integrally making it part of the original joist will actually (appreciably) strengthen the joist by increasing its section modulus.
There are companies in my area that specialize in removing contaminated insulation and replacing it with new. They have super duty vacs (probably powered by a pto from the truck's engine) and a six-inch hose for the removal. I would definitely look into this rather than the work of doing it myself. Insulation work is a low profit business so the cost would likely be the same or only a bit more than the cost of disposing of the old and the purchase of the new.
I tried to find businesses here which doing such kind of work, but it seems that in Nashville,TN this is not available.
@BridgeMan45 do you really think that would not be an issue with the weight? That would be great.
Hi Mad, My experience with a typical shop vac is the filter gets clogged up rather fast. OK for final clean up, but the bulk needs to be raked and shoveled into plastic bags. Get a top line air mask, not those coffee filters, and a large trash can with large plastic bags so you can stuff them full. If you can run an exhaust to the outside somewhere, then the vac can act as a negative pressure fan to keep the dust moving out rather than into your home. As mentioned, insulation work is often less expensive than DIY and removal is often part of the job. Where you may not be finding a stand alone service to remove the olf insulation, some of the insulation companies may do that as part of their work. Worth getting a couple of quotes. Bud
Thank you. I already called a few companies who do insulation, but they do not remove it.
I am quite sure the weight of added joist depth will not be a problem. Since I don't know the size,number, length and density of the members you intend to add, I can only provide a generalization. For instance, if you plan on adding 5 average density SPF 2 x 6s, each 12' long in a given area, the total weight will be approximately 110 lb. (102 lb. for the joists, 8 lb. for vertical attachment stubs). That's probably going to be a small fraction of the weight of all the new insulation you'll be blowing in, and for sure just a fraction of the weight of plywood sheathing and stuff you'll some day be storing up there.
Thank you very much. I think your are right.
In addition to calling insulation contractors you might try crawl space cleaning companies. They will often do insulation removal as well. Pest control companies are another possibility.
I found a local company who rents insulation removal vacuums for $250 a day. I'll take that.
Make sure it isn't just a box store shop vac, but a specific large volume machine for that job. But it sounds like what you want. It should have hoses long enough to put the vac outside with its exhaust and that will make the job a whole lot cleaner. HNY Bud
It doesnt look like a box store shop vac. They got flex hoses very long enough. Thx
Tags: replacing, insulation, attic, plastic bags, additional weight, crazy with, crazy with vertical, crazy with vertical diagonal, crazy with vertical diagonal rafter, diagonal rafter, diagonal rafter braces, existing joists
[SIZE=3]I have a carrier Gas Furnace that has a problem with the pilot light. I will try to describe the problem. It has an automatic pilot igniter. Sometime the unit will start to light the pilot (High-voltage Clicking) and then stop. Try again and stop. Sometime it will light the pilot and after maybe 30s to 1min. it turns off. Now here is the strange part! If I push on the connector on the igniter board it will start back up. Let go of the connector and it turns off. Looked at the board were the connector is soldered to the board and it looked fine. I even re-soldered the connector. I even re-soldered some of the components around the connector. It did not help. At first the board was loose. The screws would not tighten up the board to the mount. I fixed that but it too did not help. After flexing the connector a few times the furnace started working correctly. Restarted the system several times with not problems. This has happen twice now. I though that maybe it was a grounding problem because the board was very loose on the mount. My question is this! Could it still be a grounding problem or should I just replace the Igniter/Lockout Controler?[/SIZE]
Are you able to post a picture or at least the module model and make. If this is the one I think it is, that is a common problem. you will probably need to replace the module
[SIZE=3]If you mean model and makeof the Igniter/Lockout Control box it is the LH33WZ512A. It is in a gray box and the Model and part number's are printed on a white label. It looks like the ones on Ebay if you do a search for that part number. I hope this is what you needed. Reggie[/SIZE]
That module is known to fail. The fact that your furnace uses it means that your system is pretty old.......
There are 2 modules out there to choose from. Are there any difference in these 2? 1 is the LW33WZ512A and the other is a ICM296. I'm guessing that the ICM296 is just a newer model. Which would be best? Reggie
ICM module is aftermarket. I have had bad luck with ICM spark modules.
A big thanks for your time and the information.
That wasn't the module I was thinking of, however as hvactech states they also had problems. Appears you have had many years of service before it gave up.
Tags: pilot, light, problem, carrier, furnace, even re-soldered, grounding problem, Igniter Lockout, light pilot, part number, that your, will start
I have a four year old mantis tiller with a two stroke single cylinder engine with a ZAMA diaphragm model C1U type carburetor. After using the tiller for a few hours this week the gas supply cut off. I removed the carburetor and using my compressor blew out all openings and took the gas filter off as it appeared to be dirty. After re-assmbly I attempted to start the tiller, however now it started to flood the engine wetting the spark plug which is new. After letting the tiller sit over night with the spark plug out and purging the combustion chamber I re-installed the spark plug, put the ingnition switch to on and tried to start the tiller without using the bubble purge or the choke. The engine started with on pull of the cord ran for about ten seconds and stopped. I took the spark plug out and it was wet with gas. I bought a carburetor kit from Mantis and a new gas filter and installed both after cleaning the carburetor throughly with gum out. The problem still existed. I once again cleaned the spark plug and after purging the combustion chamber and cleanin the muffler system, I re-installed the spark plug, cut off the gas supply to the carburetor and restarted the tiller it ran great with the gas that was still in the carburetor, I cut off the ignition switch, cut it back on and restarted the engine it ran for a few seconds until the gas ran out. I unclamped the gas line, let in a small amount of gas to the carburetor then reclamped the gas line, dried off the spark plug, started the engine, it started right up and as it ran I opened the fuel line and it flooded out immediately putting me back to square one. Only two items were not replaced, the Main Check Valve Nozzle in the caerburetor, and the Check Valve that comes out of the gas tank. This really has me stumped. HELP, Bob
If you installed the new metering arm that came with the carb, reinstall the old one unless it was very worn as it has the proper height setting. Have a good one. Geo
Thanks for the input Geo, I've tried that also to no avail. I'm going to be gone for about a week, but if anyone has any further input please post it and I'll check when I get back on the 13th. Thanks Bob
Is the spring under the metering arm still in place? If not, this is the problem. If this isn't the problem (the spring is there), did you replace the needle?
I'm also having similar problems w/ my mantis tiller. Mine is several years older, but I replace the carb a year ago. It's also a zama C1U type carb. It worked the first time I put the carb on. The second time it ran for about 15 mins and it hasn't run since. Does your puke gas out from under the gas cap?
Originally Posted by cheese Is the spring under the metering arm still in place? If not, this is the problem. If this isn't the problem (the spring is there), did you replace the needle? Cheese, I replace everything in the carb with a new kit. That included a new spring, Inlet Needle, Metering Lever, Arm Pin, new Diaphragms and Gaskets. The parts list in the users manual lists a Main Check Valve Nozzle, but I don't believe that a replaceable part. Bob
Finelly found out the problem with the carburetor and tiller is doing fine.
What was the problem?
Yeah, what'd you find wrong?
Originally Posted by bobwhite1 Finelly found out the problem with the carburetor and tiller is doing fine. what did u discover to be wrong w/mantis carb?
Originally Posted by americanhorse what did u discover to be wrong w/mantis carb? I have a 1994 mantis that has set up for about 5 or 6 yrs. and i am having the same kind of problem. I have cleaned the carb, put in a kit but i am having the short run, flooding carb, wet plug, and oil coming out of the exhaust. I would love to what you found was the problem.
Sorry I haven't posted lately, just got back on the computer. The problem was corrected simply by adujusting the high and low needles. Most carbs are turned out about 1 and 1/4 turns but this one with the plastic restricter only turn out 1/4 turn for the high and low, once I did this it started right up and all I did was adjust the high side a hair richer and its been running great ever since. Hope this helps someone out there, take care, Bob
Tags: mantis, tiller, carburetor, problems, spark plug, this problem, Check Valve, found problem, Originally Posted, carburetor tiller, carburetor tiller doing
I have a wayne dalton torquemaster torsion spring assembly. It had been removed from a previous garage door. I need to reset the counters to zero ( it's at 15 now) . How do i do it before i install it . Is anyone fimiliar with this product.
Curious if you were able to resolve this. If not, then here is a link to the install instructions for the torquemaster. http://www.wayne-dalton.com/Files/Pr...201-8-2007.pdf there are other install instructions but they just relate to a different type of door.
well their instruction manual is as clear as mud, I guess when the door was removed the counter was unwound to 15 and now when i put it back i will have to wind it to 0 . If i am wrong pls correct??. Thanks for your help LEG911
Yes, rewind it to 0 with the door cables disconnected. Reconnect the cables at both ends, snug(take up the slack) per instructions, tighten the set screws. You can now wind it up per instructions to about 15, or as recommended for your door.
Thanks Just Bill to clear the confusion. I am doing the framing and when i get to installing the hardware i will update how it went.
so i finished up the framing and installed the door. Had to use a O E low head room kit since my headroom was only 8.5. Torqued up the torquemaster torsion spring to 16.5 on the dial on both the LHS and RHS. On the manual it says for a 6'9 height i should take it to 15. There are two Questions 1) when the door is full open : I notice that RHS cable is tight but the LHS cable is slack . Should both be tight?. When i lower the door to 1/3 then only does the LHS cable come tight. Is this normal? if not, what should i do?. Also i notice that to close the door from the full open position i have to exert some downward force to get the door to close. Opening the door is smooth. How easy should a door open and close manually when everything is perfect. 2) After using the lowhead room kit the space left between door (when at maximum arc) and top is 2. Is 2 space enough to install a chain drive 1/2hp craftman opener. Are there any trick of the trade when working with tight fit. Thanks for all the guys that help make is possible for me to install this door ( i hope i did the right thing???)
Just to update. I have installed the opener and after adjustment, it is working good. This post is just to let people know that it can be done. This was my first garage door installation, framing and everything with very tight clearance to work with. So there you go guys, if i can do it, anyone can. Just be careful with the torsion spring.
Glad it worked. They do make a good DIY product, from a safety standpoint.
I have lost tension and cables are no longer on tracks. Anyone know what I need to due? Thanks
I am in same boat as UCisnumber1, this morning the door worked great, came home from church and the door would not open. I disconnected the opener at the track, and found that the door was extremely heavy, which I figure is that the spring has failed, or lost tension. I tried to read the label on the door for which one it is, but the label is so brittle, it broke and cracked and I cannot read anything other than it is a Wayne Dalton Door. We bought this house with the door installed already, and no paperwork from the previous owners,.... From the pictures on their web site I have figured it is a Torquemaster Single Spring System, and I am downloading the installation/ owner manual. I was just wondering if anyone has heard of or experienced any pitfalls with these doors and systems, or if there were any recommendations on remedy the issue?
The remedy is simple. Call in a garage door repair service. The torsion spring broke, which does happen without warning. Unless you have the proper tools and experience, trying to re tension the spring after replacement could cause serious injury or worse. This is one job best left to the pros.
Tags: reset, torquemaster, torsion, spring, garage door, torsion spring, from previous, full open, install instructions, lost tension, notice that
Model JE1390 GE Profile microwave sensor convection. Year: 1998 It worked fine last night and suddenly stopped this morning. No light, no buttons are working. I checked the home fuse and tested electric current in power outlet. The electrical current is in the socket. I am wondering if there is any internal fuse in these microwave that blew off. Any help will be appreciated here. Thanks. H
Welcome to the DoItYourself.com forums You can try checking the fuses and door switch. See here: http://www.repairclinic.com/0088_6_1.asp#Level1_1 If your microwave oven doesn't seem to work at all, check these: Fuses Door switch Fuses Usually, when your microwave oven doesn't work it all, the internal fuse (thermal fuse) is blown. This fuse protects both you and the oven. When it blows, you need to have a qualified appliance repair technician replace it. Door switch If the fuse isn't the problem, check the door hooks and the door-release button. When these are broken, the door switch doesn't activate, so the oven can't work.
I have also have a problem with a GE microwave, however, in my case, the microwave unit does power up. The problem is the last time we used it, it made a louder humming sound than usual and gave off a slight electrical burning odor. I'm afraid to turn it on long enough to see if it still actually will heat something.
adanek, Not a pro, but it sounds like you may have a bad magnetron or bad high voltage diode according to this: http://www.applianceaid.com/micro.html#common or this: http://www.repairclinic.com/0088_6_1.asp#Level1_7 When the microwave won't heat, but you hear a loud buzz, you usually have a defective power diode, high-voltage capacitor, or magnetron. We recommend that you consult with a qualified appliance repair technician for help in determining the problem and deciding what to do about it.
I have the same problem as Henryy. I have an over the range Sharp, Model R-1820. Where and how can I get to the fuse? Thanks for the help.
All, Please open new threads for each microwave. Everyone's problem is unique and needs to be addressed separately. Henryy, There is a ceramic fuse located somewhere behind the control panel, usually toward the bottom of the case. It's likely bad. Find it, remove it, and take it to any electronics store for a replacement (I would buy 2). Be extreamly careful inside the cabinet. Unplugging the unit doesn't get rid of the electricity that's stored in the high voltage section of the microwave. Don't poke around. Just find and remove the fuse (no voltage there once the microwave is unplugged). Doug M.
Sharp R-1820 Over the Range Convection/Microwave Wanted to let you know that to remove the fuse, the microwave had to be removed, the case removed and the fuse was located behind the control panel close to the oven. Found that the fuse was blown, replaced it and everything is fine. Before I re-install it, I will run it to see that the fuse doesn't blow due to a defective component. A new very similar model (R-1870) would have cost me $399.00. So far I've gotten 18 years of use and hope that I can get 5 more. Thanks for you help.
Thanks for the advice and links. And for pointing out the proper protocol for postings.
Thank you for your replies. I opened the microwave and found out it was the fuse which was blown. I went to OSH and got 2 fuses for $3 and it working like normal before. I am glad I visited this site...saved me trouble and money ;-)
1) NEVER BEEN HERE BEFORE 2) I HAD ALREADY CHALKED UP THE MICROWAVE, for a NEW ONE (BIG DEAL...$50-$120) since we only do POPCORN, or MELT BUTTER, etc in...NO COOKING 3) Disassembling a MAJOR APPLIANCE? I feel funny working without a NET! I went to RADIO SHACK (found the ceramic fuse NOT UNDER THE CONTROL PANEL, but on the rear wall opposite it...SNEAKY), and for $2.99 GOT 4 15AMP 250 volt (they said it means UP TO 250 volt , so ok with 110). INSTALLED...plugged in before putting the cover back on...IT LIT UP WITH THE TIME....AMAZING... a few screws later I felt like I was a MASTER ELECTRICIAN WITH A MINOR IN MICROWAVE TECHNOLOGY! THIS SITE ROCKS! Beer 4U2
I have a GE spacemaker microwave and some of the buttons do not work. I tried unplugging it for a few minutes and holding in the clear/off button for a few seconds but still does not work. Does anyone know what the problem could be?
I have an interesting issue with a DESA natural gas log installed in my home. I don't have any real paperwork on the unit and apparently DESA went out of business in 2009 so I'm not going to have any luck on parts or advise from the manufacturer. It is a natural gas unit with a standing pilot light. It has a thermal sensor on it, and no remote or wall switch controlling it. If it would be helpful to post some photos, let me know and I will do so. At any rate, the unit is shutting off intermittently. Sometimes it is after an hour or so, but most often it is after about ten minutes. The unit turns off and you can hear the valve assembly close. The pilot light is killed when this happens. If I then walk over, cycle the unit back to pilot and push the ignition, it comes right back on. I then turn the unit up to a higher temperature and it comes right back on. Then, around ten minutes later it clicks back off. Any suggestions on how I could go about troubleshooting this and hopefully getting it corrected? Thanks! Chris
Unvented gas equipment is a significant safety risk. If you READ, UNDERSTAND and FOLLOW ALL the written warnings and direction specified by the manufacturer, I suppose they can be operated with a degree of safety. But you don't have those warnings and directions. You can't operate it safely. The only safe way to operate the equipment you have is to disconnect it and leave it off. Sorry.
Desa Parts and Desa Tech Support Manuals Seems to have all the manuals and info as well as parts and tech info....
So I presume the SeattlePioneer must work in the direct vent industry. I do understand and follow all safety precautions for this fireplace. I've been a full time firefighter for 10 years and have never seen an issue with a vent free fireplace. I presume that's a good thing, though that's the only thing I can speak to. Thanks for the link GunGuy. The manual seems a little thin and mostly speaks to normal operation. There isn't much of significance noted in the troubleshooting section. Does anyone else have any general troubleshooting suggestions?
Here is a link to one of the unvented fireplaces by this manufacturer: http://www.desatech.com/manuals/Stov...113084-01K.pdf If you read it, you will notice that pretty much the entire thing is a list of warnings about the potential hazards of this equipment. Also pretty much the initial warning requires that only qualified people repair the fireplace. So your soliciting information on DIY repairs is just an example of how you and most everyone else ignores the safety warnings provided by the manufacturer. I think you'll find a similar warning on pretty much any unvented appliance. And in the case of unvented equipment it's very important that guidance be followed. As a firefighter with ten years of experience, you are unqualified to have expert opinions on such equipment. You are merely equipped with overconfidence borne of lack of training and experience with such equipment. I was a repairman for a utility company working on gas equipment for fifteen years. On the NUMEROUS occasions when fire departments were called out on gas leak or carbon monoxide complaints by utility customers, I was one of the people usually summoned by the fire department to evaluate the possible hazards of gas equipment. Fire departments are just fine for pulling people out of imminently hazardous situations --- I called upon fire departments to perform evacuations when such services were needed. But fire department personnel aren't competent to evaluate the risks of gas equipment. I also operated my own independent repair service from 1994 to 2007 when I retired --- mostly repairing gas fireplaces. And I have seen people injured by unvented gas fireplaces ---carbon monoxide poisoning. Vented an unvented equipment can both produce potentially lethal amounts of CO. But 99% of the time, vented equipment will vent those hazardous gasses outdoors, while 100% of the time unvented equipment will vent those hazardous gasses into the dwelling area. So I suggest that unvented gas equipment is at least 100 times as hazardous as vented equipment. If those odds appeal to you, by all means keep using your gas logs. It's certainly no skin off of my nose.
I believe that FMI took over the Desa co. I am installing a direct vent from them and have noticed some info on Desa in the process. They(FMI) have live technical support which I have used several times on my install. Just google FMI fireplaces and follow the links. Just an FYI, my direct vent is also doing the same thing. Mine apparently is a venting issue, which I have yet to figure out. Same systems as you describe. I have installed other fireplaces and have worked with natural gas lines in the past, but this one remains a mystery. I will be interested to find out what your isssue is.
Cvecchi posted his problem a year ago so I assume by now he has solved his problem. I am posting to help with people who, like me, was looking for an answer to the same issue Cvecchi was having. I certainly did not find it on this site, and I must say that SeattlePioneer is totally, TOTALLY wrong about vent-free gas appliances. They are no more dangerous than any other gas fired heater. The main reason ventless gas heaters are not dangerous is because they are all required by law to have an ODS pilot light that automatically shuts the whole unit off if it detects a low oxygen level, which is usually caused by the presence of carbon monoxide. Is it foolproof? Like any other mechanical device, it can fail. However ODS pilots pretty much always fail on the safe side. And that is what is happening to Cvecchi, unless he is really having low oxygen problems, which is very, very unlikely. This problem is almost always caused by the two tiny air holes behind the pilot light getting partially plugged. These holes allow oxygen to get into the sensor and when they get blocked,even a little bit, the pilot goes through the procedure of shutting down the whole unit because it cannot detect enough oxygen. I had this problem with my free standing ventless stove. All you need to do is blow some air into the two tiny holes to clear them out. I have found that if I keep the area clean around my heater, this will never happen. At the start of each season, I vacuum down the whole heater, inside and out, including the gas logs. Then I vacuum all around the heater, especially underneath it. Then I use my air compressor to blow away any remaining dust, especially around the pilot light. Most importantly, I blow air into the two tiny holes on the rear of the pilot light. Another thing to check is to make sure the pilot flame is touching the thermocoupler and any other sensor in front of the flame. My heater actually has three sensors. The main thermocoupler is a thicker metal cylinder directly over the flame, and then there are two other smaller sensors in front of the flame. This is another safety device found on all pilot lights to detect heat from the pilot light to ensure it has not gone out. If it cannot detect heat, it will also shut down the whole heater. That is why you have to hold down the pilot button when you first light it. It will not stay lit without the button being held down until the sensors heat up. So I hope this will help other people who got to this site because they are having the same problem. Don't worry about these heaters being unsafe. Not only are they safe, but they are the most efficient gas heaters on the market, as no heat goes up your chimney. It all stays in your home. So how can an unvented gas flame not be dangerous and spew deadly fumes in your home? Simple chemistry. Natural gas is a hydrocarbon, which means it is made up of molecules consisting of hydrogen and carbon. When heated and combined with oxygen, the hydrocarbon molecules break down and the carbon mixes with oxygen to form carbon dioxide and the hydrogen mixes with oxygen to form H-2-0, or water. So not only are ventless heaters very efficient, they also humidify the dry heated air. The only problem is that if there is not enough oxygen to burn the hydrocarbons, instead of producing harmless carbon dioxide, it produces carbon monoxide, a poisonous gas. That is where the ODS sensor comes in. I also have an actual carbon monoxide detector that I keep in the same room as my heater. In the 10 years or so I have had this detector, it has stayed at zero.
No, the entire manual that SeatlePioneer linked to is not just a list of warnings. It lists pretty much the same warnings as any gas heater. The solution to the problem of the heater shutting off can be found on page 16 of this manual. It shows clean the small inlet holes of the pilot burner. These holes getting plugged up is what causes the heater to shut down.
Tags: desa, vent, free, shutting, pilot light, pretty much, carbon monoxide, direct vent, down whole, tiny holes, with oxygen
I have a Briggs Stratton 4HP engine on my push mower. It was running fine then suddenly it started surging. I've run it for about an hour since and it has been fairly consistent in its surging. Only a couple of times did it smooth out - and only for a few seconds. The carb has no adjustments except for what I call the throttle - the owner's manual calls it the governor control lever. Adjusting this lever does vary the engine speed, but the surging remains at any speed. The air filter is clean and the bowl appears to be clean. Any ideas on what the problem could be? Thank you!
It's likely a dirty carburetor. Even though the float bowl is clean there are tiny holes for metering fuel, jets, that can clog. It can be anything. Dirt or old gas are likely culprits. Usually the surge is caused by it being lean. If you haven't, drain all the gas out and put in fresh, as in you just got it from the station, fuel. Gas goes bad in as quick as 30 days. If it's running somewhat well you could try running a fuel system cleaner. Odds are the carb will need to be taken off and cleaned.
To clean this type of carb, do I need special cleaner or do I just take it off and make sure the holes are clear with the help of some gasoline?
You'll probably need something stronger than gasoline to clean it. Get some spray carb cleaner. Do you have compressed air to blow out the carb? You can use something like the bristle off of a wire brush to clean the jets. Make sure the float is pivoting freely as well. Before you take the carb off, take lots of pictures of the linkages. They can save you a lot of grief later. What are the engine numbers?
I appreciate your help aandpdan. I do have an air compressor. What are the engine numbers? Do you mean the model and serial numbers?
It would be nice to have the Model, type and code numbers usually stamped in the metal shroud just above the spark plug, however. If you have a fairly new BS 4hp engine the carb sets on top of the fuel tank and the instructions below will explain fix it. You need to install a new diaphram kit, it is Briggs part # 795083 or old # 495770 also Lowe's has a kit #5083 which has the same parts. Here we go: Remove air cleaner, there are 2 bolts that hold things together, one on the front of the tank 3/8 and one into the block 1/2, remove these bolts, now slowly slide the carb/tank off the intake tube and breather tube, now tilt the tank in to release the throttle linkage and waalaa the carb/tank is removed. Check the intake tube to see if the “O” ring seal and plastic retainer are still on the intake tube, if so remove them and re-install them into the carb. Remove the 5 screws from the carb/tank remove carb(don't loose the spring) now spray all holes, cracks and crevases in both the carb and tank surface with brake parts cleaner, remove the main screen(looks like a thimble), now with a small screwdriver pry out the main jet(carefully) and clean it, check the “O” ring on the main jet for damage, if it is damaged it must be replaced, reinstall the jet, it can be difficult some times to get it to snap back in place(I use the rounded end of a screwdriver handle). Remove and clean the fuel pickup stem(not necessary if the fuel tank was clean). Clean any junk/rust from the tank. Install the diaphram on the tank then the gasket(no goo or sealer) now carefully replace the carb(the spring will try to misalign the diaphram), tighten all screws a little at a time so as not to crimp the diaphram until they are all tight. Install the carb/tank in reverse order and you are done. If I missed something one of the real mechanics will correct me. Have a good one. Geo
Do you mean the model and serial numbers? Yes, that's what I mean. Briggs makes many engines and can have many different carburetors.
Tags: briggs, stratton, engine, surging, carb tank, intake tube, Briggs Stratton, engine numbers, fuel tank, mean model, mean model serial, mean model serial numbers, model serial, model serial numbers
I'm having carpet installed on my stairs and I want to add a bullnose to each stair. A contractor said to glue and screw a 3/4 X 3/4 piece of wood to the top of each riser flush with the tread. Is there a standard size? My carpet is a low pile carpet that will be stapled around bullnose to make the bullnose visible. Advice?
Welcome to the forums! Since the bullnose will be taking the brunt of weight of personnel transversing the staircase, Gluing and screwing them may be enough, but I would also either dowel or biscuit them into the tread remnant. What sort of protrusion do you have on the tread at present? Any? Are they regular 1 tread material? Or are they construction treads?
1x2's 2 of them per step, to make an inch and a half, by an inch and a half nose. Glue(using urethane) and screw each
Thanks Guys. Chandler: The tread does not protrude at all out beyond the riser. The tread is 3/4 plywood. I'm thinking glue and 2 screws.
Screws may not have the holding ability needed in the edge of plywood. I would not do it unless it was dimensional lumber (ie. 5/4 tread material). Wait on other responses, but IMO, replacing the treads may be the only way you will achieve a strong nosing.
A simple and refined bathroom backsplash adds polish to your decor.
Backsplashes are an important part of decorating your home. They range in price from free to several thousands of dollars. A simple backsplash gives a refined appearance to rooms and can increase the resale value of the house. Installing your own backsplash can be a fun weekend project for do-it-yourself enthusiasts. Before beginning any project, research which backsplash material can work best for you and your family.
Tile Backsplash
Tile backsplashes come in many forms and sizes and are made from different materials. Tiles are commonly made from ceramic, glass and metal. Tiled backsplashes are relatively easy to install for the moderately versed homeowner. Ease of care and cost depends on the tile material chosen.
Full Backsplash
A full backsplash covers the entire wall before stopping at the counter top and cabinets. Solid backsplashes are easy to wipe down, unless a difficult-to-clean material is used. Some options include stainless steel, glass, stone and even wallpaper.
Mirror Backsplash
A backsplash made from mirrors can add drama and reflection to an area. The backsplash can be solid or created by using mirrored tiles or pieces of broken mirrors. Mirrors add a sense of contemporary style while reflecting the light and surrounding area. The glass is easy to disinfect and wipes clean with glass cleaner or ammonia and water.
Glass Backsplash
Glass backsplashes works well in contemporary and traditional home settings. Glass tiles and pieces can be arranged to form a see-through backsplash on kitchen islands. This gives the appearance of traditional stained glass. Abstract designs placed against a string of lights provide an unexpected twist to traditional backsplash types.
Recycled Backsplash
Recycled backsplashes are created from a myriad of materials. Broken shards from bottles and other recycled glassware can be arranged into different shapes and scenes. Jagged and sharp areas are sealed with mortar before use. Other recycled materials include sealed paper, metal, preserved plants and blossoms and even shells and fossils.
Transmissions and torque converters have a lot of components that can go bad. Problems with transmissions and torque converters may be related to how the vehicle is driven or could just be because of a faulty component. Either way, transmission problems can be frustrating and difficult to diagnose without pulling the entire transmission apart. There are different problems associated with manual and automatic transmissions.
Torque Converters
Your torque converter is the component that transfers the torque of your engine to the automatic transmission in order for it to be used to move your vehicle. A common torque converter problem is worn needle bearings. This problem typically causes noise when the car is in gear but not when it is in neutral. A clutch that jams or locks the stator, one of the components that circulates fluid, is also fairly common. This will cause a lack of power when accelerating and at higher speeds. It could also make your transmission fluid run extremely hot and cause your vehicle to overheat. Torque converter seal damage can be caused by the transmission overheating. Breakage of the interior clutch is closely related to excessive load being put on the torque converter components or the clutch itself.
Automatic Transmissions
Automatic transmissions are notorious for having more problems than their manual counterparts. Because they have hundreds of components, diagnosing an automatic transmission problem can be difficult. Low transmission fluid is a very common problem for automatic transmissions. If the fluid is low, your car will not shift into gear. A faulty pump, controller, vacuum or valve body can also cause problems for your transmission's shifting abilities. A short in a shifter solenoid or other electronic component might throw a computer code letting your car know that something is wrong. By plugging your car into a computer reader, you can get the code translated into what the problem is. This might mean the difference between replacing just a solenoid and replacing your entire transmission.
Manual Transmissions
Manual transmissions have less problems and are easier to diagnose when something does go wrong because there are fewer components in a manual transmission than in an automatic one. Release or pilot bearing problems are fairly common in manual transmissions. A noticeable noise or pitch change, squealing or chirping when the clutch is pushed in are indicators of a bearing problem. Gear synchronizers and internal bearings could be the problem if there is a noise that occurs when the car is in, or shifted to, a certain gear. Problems with the clutch in manual transmissions include it not fully releasing or not engaging. If the clutch doesn't release, it will cause a grinding noise to occur when shifting. The car won't go into gear if the clutch doesn't engage. Manual transmissions can also stick in gear, which can be caused by a broken shift cable, broken gear or bent linkage. Low lubrication levels in the gear box can also cause problems with your transmission.
No matter how careful you are, stains just happen. Whether you're working on your car in your garage or driveway, or it happens to develop an unsuspecting leak, oil can leave unsightly stains. Whether on pavement or clothing, no need to worry or spend a lot of money searching for the right cleaner. Grab a 2 liter or a can of coke and treat the stain. You'll see that coca cola is good for more than just quenching thirst.
Instructions
Removing Oil With Coke
1. Soak up any excess oil with a shop towel, or an old bath towel.
2. Let coca cola get to room temperature, then pour over top of stain until stain is completely covered. Let it remain on stain overnight or for 8 - 10 hours.
3. Soak up coca cola and oil once again with shop towel or bath towel. Gently blot while soaking up.
4. Rinse the area with warm water with a squirt of Dawn dish detergent added.
5. Rinse off the soapy water with a hose, or dish of plain warm water.
Removing Oil Stains From Clothing
6. Pour classic coke directly on the stain and let sit for two hours.
7. Wash clothing with detergent, as usual.
8. Add a can of coke classic to your wash if you have stains that cover a wide area or several stains.
Tips Warnings
Keep an extra bottle of coke classic in your garage and laundry room for oil stain emergencies.
When soaking up excess oil, blot but don't rub or you will spread the stain.
Treadle sewing machine requires little maintenance
Treadle sewing machines are driven by a leather cord which is fastened together with a hook or staple. These belts or cords are very durable and seldom need replacing, but occasionally they do dry rot or break.
New treadle cords come 68 inches to 76 inches in length with a staple or hook on one end and are designed to be cut and custom fit to each particular machine set-up. Replacing the cord on a treadle machine isn't as simple as slipping a belt over a flywheel, but the procedure isn't difficult.
Instructions
1. Raise the machine head to the working position.
2. Cut and remove the old cord if necessary.
3. Fold the new cord in half and run one end through the front hole located below the hand wheel and the other end through the back hole.
4. Position the cord in the belt groove on the left side of the hand wheel.
5. Thread the cord through the guides located on the flywheel. Most machines have only one guide at the front, but some may have a guide at the back also.
6. Place the cord in the groove of the flywheel and pull it up snug with the ends overlapping.
7. Place a mark where the staple end meets the free end, and mark on the free end where the staple or hook will go.
8. Remove the cord and cut straight across where you marked it. Use the finishing nail or ice pick to punch a hole in the center of the cord for the staple.
9. Replace the cord, making sure it is positioned in the groove of the hand wheel and the groove of the flywheel.
10. Pull the ends of the cord together and push the staple into the hole. Use the pliers to fold the end of the staple down to secure it.
Tips Warnings
The cord should be snug enough to turn the flywheel, but not so snug the machine is hard to treadle.
Be sure you do not cut the staple end of the cord.
If you own a Moen 7400 kitchen faucet, chances are the seals inside the cartridge are starting to wear. Once the seals wear down, leaks may begin to form around the handle. One way to stop these leaks is to replace the cartridge. This project takes about a half hour to complete. It involves just a few basic skills and is easy to master. Having an instruction manual nearby will only help move the process along a little faster.
Instructions
1. Shut your water valves under the sink by turning them left or counterclockwise.
2. Take off the cap from the handle by prying it up with a small screwdriver. Unscrew the screw inside the handle with an Allen wrench and take off the handle.
3. Remove the dome and pivot assembly by twisting it to the left by hand. Use a pair of pliers if this part does not come off readily. Remove the retainer nut under the bonnet cap with the pliers by twisting it to the left.
4. Remove the spout and then the diverter (if your unit has a sprayer) by turning it to the left. Take off the washer and then pry out the retainer clip with your pliers. Finally, remove the cartridge assembly.
5. Slide the new cartridge into the faucet head after lining up the grooves on it with the faucet head slots. Replace the parts in reverse order as they were removed to reassemble the unit.
Recycled art is an environmentally friendly, or green, way to showcase your creativity and artistic skills. While most metals are recyclable, it is even more responsible to find other uses for items, rather than placing them in the recycling bin. This is because even the process of recycling costs energy. You can use several types of found metal in interesting ways to create a decorative home art collection.
Instructions
1. Apply paint to the surface of a canvas. Use a thick brush to cover the entire canvas with one color or use thinner brushes to paint a scene or image onto the canvas. Allow it to dry.
2. Clean pieces of metal junk with a clean cloth to remove any loose rust, grease or dirt. Use old saw blades, pieces of scrap metal, pipes, license plates, old keys and metal wire.
3. Apply rubber cement to on of the flat sides of each piece of metal and press them onto the canvas. Arrange them in a shape, image or random collage.
Gum pain, soreness and callouses can be problems for denture wearers. Tender spots can be the result of dentures that fit poorly or that rub against the gums due to chewing food, clenching or teeth grinding. Your denture professional is the best person to consult to help you get rid of callouses under dentures.
Instructions
1. Use denture creams or adhesives pending a trip to a denturist, advises Dentures.net. These drugstore products will bond the gum to the dentures, cushioning the gums and keeping your dentures in place. Alternately, denture cushions--small cotton pads soaxed in wax--can be inserted in the space where the denture meets the gum. The pads should be replaced daily.
2. Give your gums a rest. Dentures.net notes that the most effective method to promote healing is to avoid wearing dentures for a short time to give sore, calloused gums a breather. Gently bathe the gums with a warm, wet washcloth to avoid infections.
3. Let your denturist make the final decision as to remedy callouses. The American Dental Association notes that dentures can lose their fit due to the recession or shrinkage of bone and gum ridges, which in turn causes callouses, sores and infection. Your denturist may advise applying a temporary or semi-permanent liner to the underside of the denture to give the gums healing time. Flexible resin may be applied to the denture base to make dentures fit more snugly. As noted by dentures.net, the treatment depends on the condition of your mouth.
Tips Warnings
The ADA advises replacing old or ill-fitting dentures before they begin to cause callouses.
If dentures consistently slip, click or whistle, don't try to adjust your dentures using a home or drugstore remedy; see a dental professional instead.
Ultrasuede boots provide a lightweight, stain-resistant alternative to natural suede. Ultrasuede is a soft, synthetic material made from spun polymer microfibers and coated with a protective layer of polymer. This process allows ultrasuede to resist stains, fading and moisture damage. Spot clean your ultrasuede boots to remove dirt and debris. This method maintains the structure of the boots and keeps them looking their best.
Instructions
1. Brush the boots with a soft-bristled brush to remove any loose dirt or soils. If the boots are soiled with liquid, press a towel onto the ultrasuede to absorb any excess liquid.
2. Dampen a cloth with lukewarm water and wring it out. Blot the stains or dirt and turn the cloth as the stain is absorbed. If the stain is oil-based, use a cloth dampened with ethyl alcohol and blot the material from the outside of the stain toward the center.
3. Blot the stain with a clean, dry cloth to absorb any moisture. Allow the boots to dry in a well-ventilated area overnight.
4. Brush the boots with a soft-bristled brush to restore softness.
Edible flowers aren't a new trend at all. They've been used for centuries, and their popularity as a food rather than just a garnish has made a recent comeback. There is a wide variety of edible flowers. Most vegetable and herb flowers are edible, and many ornamental plants in your garden may be edible, too. Buying dried edible plants can be as easy as walking into the bulk section of a health food store. Fresh edible flowers however, are less common or are often available only during the spring and summer season. Fresh flowers are best eaten soon after being harvested and don't stay fresh for long. Here's the best way to find edible flowers in your neighborhood.
Instructions
1. Check the fresh produce section of your local grocery store. Often, edible flowers can be found near the gourmet vegetables, wild mushrooms or imported vegetables. Usually, you will find a mix of packaged fresh edible flowers rather than one specific type.
2. If you can't find edible flowers at your local grocery store, many health food stores carry edible flowers in the spring and early summer. Look in the fresh produce section for a fresh mix of edible flowers.
3. You also can find an array of edible flowers in the bulk dried herb section of most health food stores. Go to this section to familiarize yourself with the various edible flowers you can buy. You'll likely find hibiscus, rose buds, lavender, calendula and chamomile. These can be used in teas or to flavor cooking oil and vinegars.
4. If you are still unable to find fresh edible flowers at your local health food store, check any gourmet or specialty food shops in the area. Edible flowers are often considered an exotic food and may be found in these types of shops.
5. Once you find a selection of flowers, look them over to find the freshest flowers with no signs of wilting. Also, purchasing organic flowers will lessen your risk of being exposed to toxic pesticides and insecticides that may have been sprayed on the plant.
A geologist is a scientist who studies the composition, processes and history of the earth. For example, geologists study earth processes such as landslides, earthquakes, floods and volcanic eruptions. Geologists study earth materials such as oil, metals, rocks and water. Geologists study earth history, including the history of climate change and the evolution of life. Although the minimum requirement for some entry-level position is a bachelor's degree, most geologist positions require at least a master's degree.
Degree Requirements
According to the Bureau of Labor Statistics, most research positions in private industry, federal agencies and state geological surveys prefer a geologist with a master's degree. Most high-level research and college teaching positions require a Ph.D.
High School Preparation
High school students interested in getting a geology or related degree need to take college preparatory courses, especially in math, science and writing. Other valuable high school courses include computers, geography and communication.
College Courses
Although a geology degree is the obvious choice for someone wanting to become a geologist, related degrees (such as earth or environmental science) can lead to a career in geology. Exact course requirements vary by degree type and school but are likely to include physics, chemistry, mathematics through calculus and many geology courses (such as mineralogy, crystallography, igneous and sedimentary petrology and structural geology).
Graduate Study
Graduate study is usually where geology students specialize in a specific area. Options include petroleum geology, which involves mapping the subsurface of the ocean or land as part of oil and gas exploration, and engineering geology, which applies the principles of geology to civil and environmental engineering. Students can also study areas such as mineralogy, sedimentology (study of sediments, such as sand, silt and mud), paleontology (study of fossils in geological formations), stratigraphy (study of the formation and layering of rocks) and volcanology (study of volcanoes).
Licensing
Many states require geologists who offer their services directly to the public to have a state license. Although requirements vary by state, they typically include education, experience and passing an examination.
Breast augmentation requires careful consideration.
The Mayo Clinic in Rochester, Minnesota, reports that breast augmentation has become one of the most popular types of cosmetic surgery among women in the United States. The procedure is designed to enhance the breasts by placing implants under the breast tissue or chest muscles---though the result has the potential to produce lumps about the breast area. Any potential lump should be investigated, yet some are a normal part of the healing process.
Types
Two forms of implants are used; saline and silicone, both of which have an outer silicone shell. Silicone implants are filled with a thick, sticky silicone gel, and saline implants are comprised of a thinner, saline fluid. Rupture of either of these types of implants will cause a distinct change in the appearance and feel of the breast. A ruptured silicone breast implant may eventually cause breast pain or changes in the contour or shape of the breast, writes Dr. Molly Walsh, a plastic surgeon at the Mayo Clinic. Such a rupture could be construed as a lump on the breast.
Examination
Women who have undergone breast augmentation should ask their surgeon for assistance in determining the difference between the implant and breast tissue, then conduct a monthly self-examination. Press firmly inward at the edges of the breast implants to feel the ribs beneath, checking for any lumps or bumps, suggests Mentor Corporation, a manufacturer of breast implants. However, be careful not to manipulate (i.e., squeeze) the valve on the implant excessively, which may cause valve leakage and make the breast implant deflate. The company suggests that any new lumps should be evaluated by a physician.
Identification
While any lump is cause for concern and should be tested, Dr. Howard Rosenberg, a cosmetic surgeon in Mountain View, California, says that some lumps, especially recently after surgery, may be inconsequential. These could be inflammatory reactions to dissolvable sutures, scar tissue, a small accumulation of blood clots that will eventually be replaced by scar tissue or an infection or abscess. Once again, it should be stressed that any lump on the breast should be viewed with suspicion and evaluated by a physician.
Research
The National Cancer Institute reports that significant research has been conducted evaluating the potential relationship between breast cancer and breast implants. The findings suggest a reduced risk of cancer among those with implants. Most have shown that the risk of developing breast cancer is less among women with implants compared with women without implants. In several of the studies, the size of the reduced risk was as much as 50 percent to 60 percent, says the Institute.
Risks
The American Society of Plastic Surgeons says that risks and possible complications following breast augmentation surgery include scarring, bleeding (hematoma), infection, an increase or decrease in nipple sensation, a buildup of hard scar tissue around the implant, implant leakage or rupture, wrinkled skin on top of the implant, general risks associated with anesthesia, persistent pain and the possibility of additional surgery.
I have a Trane XR90 (natural gas) that was installed in 2005 and has had just basic maintenance over the last 8 years (clean the main blower, change air filters, visual inspection of the clear vinyl drain/condensate tubes). In February 2013 the XR90 started to experience intermittent operation of the burner cycle similar to that reported by many posters on this forum: 1) the thermostat calls for heat, the inducer fan comes on and runs for about 30 seconds; 2) the igniter glows and the gas turns on, the burners light and fire for about 30 - 45 seconds before the main air blower kicks on; 3) a few seconds after the main blower turn on, the inducer fan starts to operate intermittently or kicks out completely, the burners go out and the main blower continues to run for about a minute or two and then shuts off; 4) after a couple minutes later the burner cycle starts all over again. After reading the postings on this forum I began to check the obvious items: clear intake/ exhaust pipes, clear condensate lines and proper operation of the igniter and gas burners. I then thought that it could be a malfunctioning part such as a pressure switch or worn sleeve bearings in the inducer fan. As I more closely inspected the inducer fan I began to hear a very slight “gurgling sound” after the fan had been running for about 2 minutes. I checked the 90-degree off-white-color rubber drain elbow that drains the bottom of the inducer fan into a clear drain tube and found some debris stuck in the elbow. The debris in this drain elbow accumulated over 8 years and was enough to cause a partial blockage so that the inducer fan would build up a slight amount of water as it was running. As the inducer fan was continuing to run over a few minutes, the amount of water in the fan built-up to the point where it was not able to create enough negative pressure in the burner box which then tripped out the pressure switch and shut down the burner cycle; when the burner cycle shut down completely for a few minutes, the water slowly drained from the inducer fan and the burner cycle would then re-start with the same intermittent operation of the fan. I removed and cleaned the rubber drain elbow from the fan and also cleaned the inside of the clear plastic drain line with a pipe cleaner from my local craft store. I also removed and cleaned out the white-plastic drain box the connects the burner condensate line and inducer fan drain line to the main drain line from the XR90; this white-plastic drain box was loaded with gunk that accumulated over 8 years of operation and may have also contributed indirectly to the problem. After cleaning out all of these drain line components, my XR90 is now running very reliably with no intermittent shut-downs.
Congrats on your D.Y.I. troubleshooting and repair. I once had a similar problem with the hose between the inducer and pressure switch. Re routed the hose to eliminate a dip which collected condensate and solved it. Power vent water heater required the pipe cleaner trick to put it back on line.
Good job! Cleaning and inspecting the trap and drain system is part of the annual maintenance which will help provide reliabole furnace operation. Cleaning the flame sensor is another task that should be done annually to help insure reliable ioperation.
Tags: troubleshooting, intermittent, operation, trane, xr90, furnace, burner cycle, drain line, main blower, drain elbow, pressure switch, about seconds
Hey all, Ok I am not trans guys so hopefully I can get soe help. I am have 2002 Saturn SL2 with 1.9L single overhead cam. The transmission will shift through every gear but it slams into gear from park to forward or reverse. Then between each gear it revs real hig and it slams into gear so hard it chirps the tires. I dont think its a worn trans as there is not slipping and once in gear drives fine. I took it to autozone and they said there were no codes. The check engine light is not on either? Any ideas. Thanks, Brian
If it was a 4L80E like in my wrecker, I would say input speed sensor (although the slamming between park and D/R would not fit the pattern). Probably going to need a professional opinion; any good independent tranny shops in your area? Beer 4U2
It sounds like Bang Shifting which is fatal. You need to take it to a pro. Clutch pack issues are not for a back yard mechanic.
Hey all, Just an FYI, I wasnt ready to give up and send it to a pro so I tore into the valve body last night to discover the high pressure solonoid had gone bad and actually shorted two terminals within the trans connector on the top of the transmission. I replaced the PCS and got a junk yard connector and wala. all better. Thanks for everyones input. Problem solved
Good job; always nice to get away cheap especially on tranny issues.
Tags: saturn, transmission, hard, into gear, slams into, slams into gear
Hi Guys, First post here. We bought a house this summer and it has a in-floor heating system with a boiler. The boiler is working fine, and I get very hot water for my domestic use. But I am still having problems with the in-floor heating system though. There are two zones with two thermostats, the zone-valves open and close fine, and the pump is spinning, but the supply pipes only get hot for about 2 meters, and the return pipes never get hot. so I think the pump may not be pumping enough water flow? The pump is a Grundfos UPS 15-42F, and it is located on the hot water supply side, so it is pushing I guess. The motorized zone valves are located in the return pipe sides. I have some questions about the pump. 1. does it have a installation direction? I mean, this particular pump seems installed back-wards compared to 2 other pumps in the system (one in the boiler return pipe, and one in another place), IF it indeed was installed the wrong way, will I get any flow/hot water in the pipes? 2. is it normal for a hot water pump to get its propeller loose from the shaft, so it is spinning but not pumping. (I know some car's water pumps do that when they get old, and when they do that, you get overheat engine, because of less water flow). 3. there is a switch on the pump control panel, with 1,2,3 markings, I assume this is flow rate switch? 4. The bladder type expansion tank was broken, so I replaced that, and found out the air vent release valve (where the expansion tank was attached to) is also broken, will this cause the problem I am having? There is another air vent in the system, located very high up, and when I loose it, only water came out. so I am guessing I may not have air in the pipes? 5. What other problems can it be? Thanks a lots guys, I really need some help here. Please Help! Hexar
Sounds like an air problem isolate boiler from manifolds attach garden hose to manifold and street supply push water through each zone at a time letting return water escape to sewer until a solid stream results.
Originally Posted by saves Sounds like an air problem isolate boiler from manifolds attach garden hose to manifold and street supply push water through each zone at a time letting return water escape to sewer until a solid stream results. Thanks saves! I appreciate the reply! Please take a look at the following pictures of the setup. P1120620.jpg picture by HexarAndHexanon - Photobucket P1120622.jpg picture by HexarAndHexanon - Photobucket I guess the installer did not put in a manifold, and I cannot seem to disconnect the supply nor the return lines. Or maybe I can disconnect the return lines from the check valves, where I marked with a blue arrow? Thanks! Hexar I
1. does it have a installation direction? Yes it does. Take pictures of your system and upload them to a free account at Image hosting, free photo sharing video sharing at Photobucket and come back here and post a link to your PUBLIC album. We'll take a look-see and let ya know what we think. Please make sure that the pics are IN FOCUS, WELL LIGHTED, and LARGE ENOUGH for old dudes to see. Take pictures from several angles and also take several from far enough back that we can see the entire system. 2. is it normal for a hot water pump to get its propeller loose from the shaft, No... of course that's not 'normal'... but you really mean Does it ever happen? and I would say that if it does, I've never seen it. 3. there is a switch on the pump control panel, with 1,2,3 markings, I assume this is flow rate switch? Flow rate? Yeah, sorta, indirectly. It's pump SPEED, and of course a higher speed would flow more water. But even on ONE it should pump water through the loop. 4. ...found out the air vent release valve (where the expansion tank was attached to) is also broken, will this cause the problem I am having? It certainly could CONTRIBUTE to the problem! 5. What other problems can it be? What the guy before me said... it could be 'air bound'. If you have air blocks in the piping, that's as good as a cork at stopping the flow. Before you go doing all what he said though, take those pictures so that we may properly instruct... and maybe we'll see something else... What is the reading on the PRESSURE and TEMPERATURE gauge on the boiler?
Hex! Slow down! Dont go disconnecting anything! Read my post first!
Originally Posted by NJ Trooper What is the reading on the PRESSURE and TEMPERATURE gauge on the boiler? Thanks Trooper for the reply too! The pressure was 10-12 after I replaced the expansion tank. Before that it was 4-5 when cold, and 12-14 when the boiler was running hot. And I found water when I press the bicycle tire like air valve under the expansion tank, so I thought that was bad, so I replaced it. We hired a journeyman plumber yesterday, and he could not find out what went wrong, so he increased the pressure to 15-20 when hot, I am not quite sure he did this right though. The temperature I think is around 150F (about 65C) if I remember correctly. The setup is very strange, there is a connection between the hot manifold and cold return line, and there is a check valve on that line. The valve was open, so I got warm water at the hot manifold, but this morning, after I shut the valve closed, the water temperature have been up to 150F. I have posted two small pictures when I replied saves, I will upload more when I get home tonight. Thanks again for your help! And I will not disconnect anything yet.
I forgot to mention, I think, there are two air vents, 1. the first is where the expansion tank was connected to, after I replaced the tank, I found out that this vent is bad, the float inside is all messed up. 2. the second one (I think it is a air vent) can be found out in my second picture, where I marked with yellow text bleed here?. It is high on top of two return lines. Although the whole setup is in the basement, and my master bedroom (one of the two zones) floor is maybe 15-20 feet above that. The house is a four level split, boiler is at the very bottom level, and my bedroom is at the highest. The other zone is about 10 feet above the boiler.
Sorry, got called away for a bit... Those pics aren't too bad actually, let me take a good look at them in a few minutes. And I found water when I press the bicycle tire like air valve under the expansion tank, so I thought that was bad, so I replaced it. Ya done good. Did you check the air 'pre-charge' before you installed the new tank? It should be between 12 and 15 PSI ... but remember, you can NOT check that air charge if there is any water pressure in the system. he could not find out what went wrong, so he increased the pressure to 15-20 when hot, I am not quite sure he did this right though. This was an OK thing to do. A little more pressure in the system sometimes will compress an air bubble that is blocking the flow and cause it to move... sometimes. there is a connection between the hot manifold and cold return line, and there is a check valve on that line. This sounds like a bypass line... but you say 'check valve' ... which may or may not be the correct name... hopefully I can see it in the pics when I look. my master bedroom (one of the two zones) floor is maybe 15-20 feet above that. The formula for knowing how much pressure you need (with a COLD boiler) is: 0.431 X HEIGHT IN FEET + 4 PSI So, if it's 20 feet, 8.62 + 4 = 12.62 PSI MINIMUM COLD BOILER. A little more is fine, but you never want to go less than that. more after I looky yer pics.
I do see a 'check valve' in one of the lines, and there is a 'ball valve' to the left. Is that the one you are talking about?
OK, those pics aren't real hard to see, but they are a bit small for my tired old eyes... so do take some more, the bigger the better... at least 1000 pixels wide is good... and take them from several angles so I can see stuff that might be hiding behind other stuff. Those items that you've got question marks next to are your electric ZONE VALVES. Those are connected to your thermostats. When the thermostat calls for heat, the zone valve opens, and when the valve opens, it tells the boiler to fire up. I also need to see the boiler, and where the pipes come out of it so I can tell which is supply and which is return... I see you've got some flow direction arrows... that's a help too, as long as they are correct!
Thanks a lot NJ Trooper. I will definitely take more pictures this evening when I get home, I am in the mountain time zone, so it will probably be a while yet. I am a computer programmer (they call us code monkeys), so I don't know plumbing terms very well. Sorry for the confusions. Hopefully the bigger pictures I take this evening will clear up things more. When I say check valve, I meant the valve with a handle on it, where you can turn it 90 degrees to shut the flow. And before I installed the tank, I checked the pressure, it was 12PSI, although I just used a bicycle gauge, not sure how accurate it is. It is a WATTS 30 tank, about 2 gal I think. The setup is very strange. I have in total 3 pumps (all the same model), 1. the boiler has two big pipes, I assume the right side is the hot water out, and the left side is the cooler water in? The first pump is connected to the left side (the cooler side). 2. since I have a 1972 furnace (when the house was built), it is those 80% efficiency ones, with 100K BTU output (137K BTU in). So when the previous owner did the addition (they added the master bedroom (one zone) and a sun-room and a mud-room. These two rooms are the second zone. In order to help the furnace (I am guessing), they installed a heat-exchanger within the main duct of the furnace (right above the furnace main body), and there is pipe for hot water in and hot water out. The second pump is for this. 3. the third pump is used to pump hot water to two zones. The first and second pump's direction match what I think the water flow should be. However the 3rd pump is different (since they are the same model, I assumed 3rd pump's direction based on the first 2's), if the 3rd pump flows like the first 2 pumps, then it is sucking water from the hot pipe back to the boiler. This is why I asked if there is an installation direction. Anyways, I will take more pictures. Thanks a lot again for the help! I feel more confident that this can be fixed now.
On the boiler, the supply pipe comes out at a point higher than the return pipe. You may have what is called primary/secondary piping. Check out: Technical Menu Read the primary/secondary tutorial to understand what that is all about. All the stuff on that site is a good read and will help get you familiar with your hydronic system. Asking lots of questions here will do the same.
Originally Posted by NJ Trooper OK, those pics aren't real hard to see, but they are a bit small for my tired old eyes... so do take some more, the bigger the better... at least 1000 pixels wide is good... and take them from several angles so I can see stuff that might be hiding behind other stuff. Those items that you've got question marks next to are your electric ZONE VALVES. Those are connected to your thermostats. When the thermostat calls for heat, the zone valve opens, and when the valve opens, it tells the boiler to fire up. I also need to see the boiler, and where the pipes come out of it so I can tell which is supply and which is return... I see you've got some flow direction arrows... that's a help too, as long as they are correct! Thanks again! The direction arrows are from my observations: I touch the pipe before and after the zone valve opens, so I know water flows into the pipe, because it was cold then got warm. However, I am not 100% sure about boiler's pipe. I think the left side is the cooler side, the right side is the hot side, just by touching them.
Originally Posted by drooplug On the boiler, the supply pipe comes out at a point higher than the return pipe. You may have what is called primary/secondary piping. Check out: Technical Menu Read the primary/secondary tutorial to understand what that is all about. All the stuff on that site is a good read and will help get you familiar with your hydronic system. Asking lots of questions here will do the same. Thanks Drooplug! I will definitely give it a good read. I don't remember which one is taller, the supply pipe or the return pipe, I will take pictures tonight. Thanks again!
I've hacked at some code myself over the years and am probably as good a programmer as you are boiler tech! I enjoy fooling with PIC processors and basic stamps... it's been a while now, I see they have something interesting called Arduino (spelling?) now that I might mess with someday. But let's not get off the subject! In order to help the furnace (I am guessing), they installed a heat-exchanger within the main duct of the furnace (right above the furnace main body), That's called a 'hydro-air' setup. When you say 'furnace' I assume that you mean the 'air handler' for the forced air system that also supplies your A/C in the summer, right? When I say check valve, I meant the valve with a handle on it, where you can turn it 90 degrees to shut the flow. Them 1/4 turn jobbies are 'ball valves', but as I said, I do also see a check valve there I think. 1. the boiler has two big pipes, I assume the right side is the hot water out, and the left side is the cooler water in? The first pump is connected to the left side (the cooler side). Can't see the boiler in the pics, so left/right don't mean nothin' yet... but in general, the HOT SUPPLY OUT of the boiler will be from the TOP of the boiler, or nearly so, and the COOL RETURN INTO the boiler will always be near the bottom. I am in the mountain time zone, so it will probably be a while yet. By the time you get home, I may be incoherent...
I meant that the spot that it is located on the boiler is above the return.
Hi Guys, Here are more pictures. Pictures by HexarAndHexanon - Photobucket I will try to draw a schematic of the system and upload that later. Thanks! Hex
Originally Posted by NJ Trooper By the time you get home, I may be incoherent... Sorry for the late reply, I had to send the kids to different activities before I could settle down and taking the photos. By furnace, I mean the force aire furnace. I live in Calgary, Alberta, Canada, a place about 2 meters south of north pole, and about 3000 feet elevation, so we get about 1 week pre-summer, 1 week post summer, and 50 weeks of hockey season, oops, I mean 50 weeks of winter. so we don't need AC, and I don't think we have one, at least I could not find the outside unit that has big fan and stuff. Have a good night! Hex
Originally Posted by drooplug I meant that the spot that it is located on the boiler is above the return. hi drooplug, I checked (as can be seen in the picture), the boiler is called Mini-Gas super hot, and based on the user manual found here: Mini-Gas Boiler - Dimensions and Specifications - Products for Hydronic Heating Systems - Allied Engineering Company it seems (if you are facing it), the left is inlet, and right is outlet... so i guess my hand touching measurement method seems working. Thanks, Hex
I have uploaded the schematic. I checked multiple times making sure it is as correct as possible. the valve symbol with a bar stands for a ball valve (I meant ball valve when I said check valve this morning, sorry about that). the valve symbol with a circle stands for shut off valve. the valve symbol with a M on top stands for zone valve. the circle with a P stands for pump. a fat T symbol with an arrow in it, stands for check valve. (only two in total, I think these are check valves, they have an arrow on their cast body) There is a strange fitting, it has a copper wire coming out of its bottom end and the other end of the wire connects to a pipe end. There is a screw on cap on the top of this fitting, and there is marking on the side, you can see it on the 11th photo in the album. schematic.jpg picture by HexarAndHexanon - Photobucket Thanks!
Excellent... First off, one of your closed valve must be opened. In your diagram, it's the one that appears lower in the diagram. Open it all the way. You definitely do not want that valve closed. Later on we'll talk about any possible benefit (I don't think there will be any) that throttling that valve might provide, but for now, all the way open. This will not miraculously get your zone working, but that one pump sure will be a lot happier. [edit: ya know what, on second thought, opening that valve MIGHT miraculously cure the no-heat issue... open it immediately and see what happens. With it CLOSED, you will have little to no flow through the floor!] Next, let's talk about pumping directons... What you SHOULD have, based on the piping is: The pump to the LEFT of the boiler should be pumping DOWNWARD, INTO the boiler. The pump leading to your Hydro-Air handler should be pumping AWAY from the boiler, TOWARD the air handler. The final pump, on the heating circuits should be pumping toward the LEFT, toward the TEMP gauge that's installed up there. more...
Whoever built this thing must own stock in a ball valve factory. That 'funny' gray valve with the wire on it... that's not a wire, it's a 'capillary tube', and on the end of that tube is a sensing 'bulb' inserted into a well in the top of that fitting. That gray thingy is a THERMOSTATIC VALVE. In your first post, you said: I am still having problems with the in-floor heating system and I take this to mean that you have radiant heat tubing in the floor of all the rooms. The water in that tubing should ( must ) be cooler than the water that runs into the hydro-air handler, and the indirect water heater. Usually around 100°... maybe 110°... but the bottom line is that you don't want the floor surfaces themselves any hotter than say 85°. The hydro and water heater need up to 180° water. So what your designers have done is create two parallel 'loops', one that wraps around the boiler itself, and the other that wraps around the heating circuits. The gray valve should be setup so that you have 100-110 F water flowing through the in-floor tubing. The way this works is that when the gray valve senses the water in the floor is cooling, it will open up and allow some 180 water to trickle in from the boiler loop. The flow into the pipes is coming from two places... either ALL from that bottom bypass (which is the valve I said to open)... OR when the gray valve opens it will MIX some boiler water and some bypass water. Notice that there's also a tee on the return side of the loops... think about it for a few minutes and you will understand the concept. I have ABSOLUTELY NO IDEA what that other 'bypass' with the check valve is for, especially since the direction of the check valve seems totally opposite from the flow. It just don't make any sense to me... yet... so leave that valve closed for now (even though the check valve will prevent any bypass flow). Please take another look at that check valve and confirm it's flow direction. Your diagram has the arrow pointing DOWN. more...
Regarding air removal in this system: That vent on high is probably worthless in removing any air. In order for that type of vent to do ANYTHING at all, the system must be designed such that air will actually be collected underneath the vent. If there are air bubbles in the water flow, they are gonna zing right past that thing. Any air that's in the underfloor tubing will for the most part pretty much stay there forever. Round and round she goes... It might catch an occasional bubble that happens to be in that pipe when the pump shuts off, but other than that, useless. It will have some function when draining and refilling the system though. A much better solution would be to have a 'micro-bubble scrubber' in the main flow through that loop. But, if you don't HEAR air, you are probably OK with it the way it is. As you said, it seems what the designers forgot to include are methods to purge air from the system. There should be a few strategically placed 'purge stations', a drain valve and a ball valve together that would allow you to 'steer' water through the various portions of the piping in order to drive any air through and out the drain.
Originally Posted by NJ Trooper Excellent... First off, one of your closed valve must be opened. In your diagram, it's the one that appears lower in the diagram. Open it all the way. You definitely do not want that valve closed. Later on we'll talk about any possible benefit (I don't think there will be any) that throttling that valve might provide, but for now, all the way open. This will not miraculously get your zone working, but that one pump sure will be a lot happier. [edit: ya know what, on second thought, opening that valve MIGHT miraculously cure the no-heat issue... open it immediately and see what happens. With it CLOSED, you will have little to no flow through the floor!] Next, let's talk about pumping directons... What you SHOULD have, based on the piping is: The pump to the LEFT of the boiler should be pumping DOWNWARD, INTO the boiler. The pump leading to your Hydro-Air handler should be pumping AWAY from the boiler, TOWARD the air handler. The final pump, on the heating circuits should be pumping toward the LEFT, toward the TEMP gauge that's installed up there. more... Thanks Trooper, I have openned the valve. (the lower right side one on the diagram) It was open, but I felt the water at the 3rd pump is not as hot as that from the boiler output, then I analyzed it, and thought this valve allows cooler water to come back and mix with hot water, and that is why I closed it (stupid decision I guess). After I closed it, the water temperature raised quite a bit, it was about 130, and after I closed it, it was about 160. What does this valve do? Thanks I will read your other posts...
regarding the pump directions, I think I got the same conclusions as yours, I have this stupid way of seeing it: If you face the round pump shaft with the nameplate printed, and with the control box on the top, then water flows from left to right. The first and second pump flow in this direction. However, if this is right, then the 3rd pump (the pump that circulates water to zones) should flow from the zones back to the boiler, which is not what I observated. That is why I ask the pumping direction question.
Originally Posted by NJ Trooper Whoever built this thing must own stock in a ball valve factory. Please take another look at that check valve and confirm it's flow direction. Your diagram has the arrow pointing DOWN. more... When I bought the house, I was so scared of those valves, I did not want to touch any one of them. The problem is, the lady who sold the house to us does not know anything, and her husband, who took care the whole thing, passed away, so I could not even ask anyone even some basic info. The old lady told us she has in-floor heating, under the sun-room, mud-room, and our master bedrom/bathroom. In the ceiling, I can see some grey tubings. The other 3 bed rooms and the living room have those traditional forced air registers. P1120688.jpg picture by HexarAndHexanon - Photobucket I have uploaded a new photo with this valve shown. The arrow is from the return lines to the hot supply line. I was puzzled by this, and the ball valve was initially open, so I thought this was the problem: hot water get bypassed directed to the return line, and not pumping through zones. but the direction of this check valve proves that theory wrong. P1120687.jpg picture by HexarAndHexanon - Photobucket i will read more of how the system works. Thanks so much for that!
now I got it why the lower-right valve should not be closed. If it is closed, and the grey THERMOSTATIC valve is also closed, then the pump is not pumping any water. What does that marking on the THERMOSTATIC valve used? To adjust when (At what temperature and etc.) it will open?
After reading your post a couple more times, and looking at the diagram, I think I understand it (better). There are 3 loops in the who thing, 1. from the boiler's hot line to the furnace/air handler. 2. from the boiler's hot line to the water tank. These two loops closed the circuit at the boiler's return line. 3. from the boiler's cooler/return line, through the by pass valve (the one I should not close), through the 3rd pump, through in-floor tubes, back to the boiler's cool/return line. This loop will continue, and if the water temperature is lower, then that capillary tubing will sense it, and ask the THERMOSTATIC valve to open and allow some HOT water to pass through and mix with the colder water. 4. the 4th loop I guess is the expansion tank loop. Thanks again for explain this to me, understanding the system is very important...
So, without a good way to purge the air, and if there are some air in the tubings, then am I stuck? The valve was open, and I did not get warm floor, and the return lines are quite cold. The vent on top of the expansion tank is broken, and the plumber is coming to replace it next Tuesday, I don't know if he can purge the air from the tubings.
One more question: if there is a chunk of air in the in-floor tubes, will any water pass through, if everything is working as it should? My observation is: When the pump is working, after I turn one of the zone valve open manually, hot/warm water gets pumped into the supply pipe for that zone (I can feel it is getting warm outside), but I waited for 10 minutes, and return pipe never gets warm. That is why I thought maybe the pump is weak and pump in the wrong direction. Thanks again, Hex
Ach du lieber Hex, you seem to be even more verbose than even I ! Just funnin' witchya... I'm not gonna answer every question because it seems that you've answered a number of them yourself already... If you face the round pump shaft with the nameplate printed, and with the control box on the top, then water flows from left to right. Maybe, maybe not. The motor on those pumps can be rotated into four positions. The best way is to look for the arrow in the casting. Or the 'volute' on the back, for example, in this photo (sorry it's so small, it's the only one I could find showing the back of the pump!) the flow is from left to right. The water ENTERS the pump into the CENTER of the impeller, and is thrown centrifugally out the outer radius. image courtesy nextag.com What does that marking on the THERMOSTATIC valve used? To adjust when (At what temperature and etc.) it will open? Yes. You would adjust that valve to obtain the temp you want in the heating loops. Depending on some installation details, you may be able to use hotter water than the previously mentioned 100-110. For now though, let's first try to get SOME heat out there! By the way, be careful not to 'kink' that tube. Are there any manufacturer or model numbers on that valve? Are the markings just numbers? or are they temperatures? 3. from the boiler's cooler/return line, through the by pass valve (the one I should not close), through the 3rd pump, through in-floor tubes, back to the boiler's cool/return line. Yes, with a variation. When there is a call for heat from the radiant zones, the water will circulate in that loop alone, IF the thermostatic valve is closed. In this case there will be no flow back to the boiler in that return. All the water will go round and round. When it cools, the thermostatic valve will open, and whatever flow of hot supply water there is will be balanced by cool water flowing back to the boiler in the return line. 4. the 4th loop I guess is the expansion tank loop. While it does not exactly fit the definition, we could also call this a 'primary' loop. So, without a good way to purge the air, and if there are some air in the tubings, then am I stuck? I'm going to study the diagram some more. There HAS to be some combination of valven twishten und turnen that can purge the air and fill those zones. I usually apply some zen in cases like this. Knowing that water will always flow from higher pressure to lower pressure, I 'become the water'. Thinking in this way can suggest which valves to turn and 'steer' the water where you want it to go. if there is a chunk of air in the in-floor tubes, will any water pass through, if everything is working as it should? Usually not. An air blockage is as good as a cork. It takes a MIGHTY pump to create the pressure needed to move air DOWN, under water. Ever try to sink a beach ball? Could you do it? When the pump is working, after I turn one of the zone valve open manually, hot/warm water gets pumped into the supply pipe for that zone (I can feel it is getting warm outside), but I waited for 10 minutes, and return pipe never gets warm. It is possible with an air block to observe that. When the pump runs, it will compress the air in the tubing somewhat, and some hot water will be pushed up... but not move any further. Let me look and see if I can figure a way to purge air... if that is the problem.
There are NO other drain valves ANYWHERE on the system except for the two that are shown on the diagram?
'ang on a sec... the Lennox is actually a FURNACE? I see a gas line going in... so the coil in the furnace plenum is in ADDITION to the hot air that's generated by the burners? That's weird...
The valve on the right side of the boiler which you have labeled as 'drain'... is that the one with the handle on the top and the copper pipe leading to the plastic bowl ? If so, technically not a drain, that's your PRESSURE RELIEF VALVE. That will open if the system pressure goes over 30 PSI.
Originally Posted by NJ Trooper If so, technically not a drain, that's your PRESSURE RELIEF VALVE. That will open if the system pressure goes over 30 PSI. Sorry, that is a pressure relief valve. I called it drain by mistake. There is a drain on the left side, with a round turn handle on the top, just like regular garden faucet.
Originally Posted by NJ Trooper 'ang on a sec... the Lennox is actually a FURNACE? I see a gas line going in... so the coil in the furnace plenum is in ADDITION to the hot air that's generated by the burners? That's weird... Yes, it is a furnace. It provides heat for the other 3 bedroom, living room, kitchen and etc. Basically for the old house, the addition (mud room, sun-room, and master bedroom/bath room) is heated by floor heating AND the furnace - each room in the addition has a heat register. So I think, maybe the previous owner did not want to replace the furnace with a more powerful one, so he added the boiler, and **I think** that coil in the furnace plenum is helping the furnace to push more heat. There are two motorized valves (same as the zone valves) that will turn on whenever the furnace is asked for heat - by the thermostat in the living room. (this is the 3rd thermostat in the house, the other two are located in the mud-room and master bed room, they control the in-floor heating)
Originally Posted by NJ Trooper There are NO other drain valves ANYWHERE on the system except for the two that are shown on the diagram? I looked hard, and could not find any other fittings that are not in the schematic already.
Trooper, I am quite wordy, since I want to describe the situation thoroughly, I really want to have it solved, since winter is coming and it is not good with only a 100K BTU furnace for a 2100 sqft house... and by asking lots of questions, I can actually learn lots things. I looked hard again, and finally found the arrow on the pump housing, and it is pointing away from the boiler, so that is GOOD. There is no kink on the the capillary tube, and the tube is not touching any of the cooper pipes. The valve's type AVTB, and I could not read its brand name (it is facing away, and I cannot get my big head in there.) but by googling AVTB thermostatic valve it seems it is made by Danfoss. It says its working range is 20-60C (68-140F). You said An air blockage is as good as a cork., can I drain all the water from the in-floor pipes/tubes, so that it becomes empty, just like when it was first installed, then just push water in while have the return pipe disconnected, and once we see water coming out of the return pipe, we connect it to the system, will this work? In other words, how did the installer fill the in-floor pipes with water for the first time after he installs all the pipes? Or, there is no way to drain all the water from the in-floor pipes out? Does purging mean the same thing? Or can saves method of using street water (higher pressure I assume) to push the air out? Thanks again for all the help so far! Hex
Trooper, I searched some old posts, and found this one, where you gave instructions on OP's system. 200 degrees, hot supply and return pipes, but cold baseboard pipes I have a similar drain valve (his blue valve), although they are in different locations, mine is below the pump. I don't have a shutoff valve (his yellow valve). What is the purpose of closing the yellow valve? to prevent water going back to the boiler? And you turn on the fast fill lever, so that city water will come in? And that water will push to the zones and have the water drain out from the blue drain valve. Is that the theory behind? I guess my system does not have a valve to stop water flow back to the boiler.
Will this work? Can I close all these valves (shown in the new pictures I uploaded, with yellow circles around the valve I need to close) If I then open the drain valve (below the pump), I think the water from the in-floor pipes will drain out, and the cold water makeup will flow through the thermostatic valve to the 3rd pump. The only catch is: will the thermostatic valve open? schematic-s1.jpg picture by HexarAndHexanon - Photobucket And I think I finally get the idea that the whole system is pressurized, and that is why you need the pump to circulate water. And if I open the drain valve, I am leaking pressure, and water (along with air?) will flow because : 1. by graviety 2. pushed by higher pressure on the other side. Learned lots of things today.
Tags: problems, grundfos, pump, boiler, heating, system, check valve, Originally Posted, expansion tank, from boiler, that valve, return line