Thursday, June 30, 2011

Furnish A Girl'S Bedroom Cost Effectively

You want to create a cozy bedroom for a young girl but you can't spend a lot of money. With a bit of creativity, you can add furnishings and decorations like lamps, pictures and small tables without high costs. Use these tips to furnish a girl's bedroom cost effectively.


Instructions


1. Plan how you want the room to look including what furnishings you plan to include. Once you know what you need in the room, search for the pieces that will create the room you envision.


2. Buy lamps to add light to your room without adding a lot of cost. Buy your lamps at discount stores, second hand stores or antique shops. Recover lampshades on lamps instead of buying new.


3. Stain or refinish old furniture to restore it to its original look. Wait for furniture stores to have seasonal sales if you want to buy new items at discounted prices.








4. Make your own bedding using cute patterns and feminine colors like pink and purple. Buy fabric at discount stores or wait for department stores to put material on sale.


5. Find versatile comforters that will stand up to washing. Buy matching material and make curtains instead of buying store made window coverings. Add floor mats to create a pretty room that doesn't cost a lot.


6. Buy oak veneer or cherry stained furniture instead of buying solid wood. Check for floor models to save even more money. Visit the discount section of each furniture store to find beds and dressers at reduced prices.


7. Visit furniture outlets and home improvement shops for cheaper prices. You can build your own furniture with do it yourself kits. You save money by assembling items yourself.


8. Use baskets, bins, boxes and crates to store things instead of buying expensive shelving.

Tags: instead buying, discount stores, that will

The Best Paint Colors To Brighten A Dark Bedroom

Select light colors to brighten a dark bedroom.


Perhaps your bedroom windows do not get as much direct sunlight as you would like or there is not a window at all. That does not have to mean your bedroom always has to appear dark. Careful paint color selection can make the difference between a dark and gloomy or a bright and cheery bedroom.


Warm Colors








For a warm, sunny bedroom, select colors from the warm spectrum of the color wheel. Use a light shade of yellow, peach or pink to visually warm up your room without having to touch the thermostat. Remember that painting the entire room will make the color appear darker than the color selection chip, so pick a shade lighter than what you want the finished result to appear.


Cool Colors


Cool paint colors will give your bedroom a rested, calm look that will provide you with a relaxing space in your home. Choose a pastel shade of blue or green that almost borders on being white. Look in the white color palette provided for your brand of paint. Often there are beautiful light colors masquerading as white that work well in naturally dark bedrooms. These colors will provide just a hint of color to brighten your bedroom.


Neutral Colors


Neutral colors make great paint colors to lighten up a dark bedroom. White, of course, works well but light cream is a better choice. It will brighten the room without appearing too stark. Forego using cafe-au-lait and move to the lighter shades in the paint strip, selecting a soft pastel beige or taupe instead. The lighter the color, the brighter your bedroom will appear. Purchase a small sample jar of a paint color, when available, to test the color in your room. Make sure to paint a test swatch on all walls to see how light and shadows affect the desired color. When in doubt, choose a shade one or two shades lighter for a brighter bedroom.

Tags: your bedroom, color selection, colors will, dark bedroom, light colors, paint color

Decorate A Toddler Girl'S Bedroom

Decorate a toddler girl's room with whimsical pink bedding.


Decorate a toddler girl's room with bright and cheery colors, whimsical decor pieces and durable, comfortable fabrics. When the toddler transitions from a nursery to a "big girl" bedroom, choose furniture pieces that she will be able to use for years to come. If you are creating a bedroom on a budget, use craft items and a creative touch to make your own decorative items and save money by updating hand-me-down pieces with paint.








Instructions


1. Choose a decor theme or color scheme with which to decorate the toddler's bedroom. Pick a charming ladybug, butterfly or garden-inspired theme. Add a fresh touch with a sunny yellow and turquoise or bright pink and purple color sheme.


2. Paint the bedroom walls to reflect the theme. Choose a cherry red color for a ladybug-theme space, butter yellow for a butterfly theme, or pastel pink or green for a garden-inspired room. Hang a patterned wallpaper border to enhance plain neutral-hued walls.


3. Choose durable, high-quality bedroom furniture. Pick items that the todder can use into her teens and even college years. Buy a matching wood bed headboard, night stand, dresser and work desk set for a cohesive look. Purchase a full-size bed or daybed the toddler can use for years to come.


4. Enhance the space with charming decor pieces. Decorate the bed with a vibrant pink, lime green and yellow striped comforter for a fresh look. Add a pop of color to a white or solid-color bedspread with decorative pillows. Choose plush cotton pillows with lively insect, sheep, flower or lollipop designs. Hang the toddler's artwork or whimsical prints in vibrant yellow, pink or blue frames. Add comfort to the space with a squishy, lime green beanbag chair featuring flower-inspired appliques. Enhance the night stand with an acrylic lamp featuring a green stem-shaped base and a pink bloom-inspired shade.


5. Encourage the young girl to use her imagination and creativity by infusing the space with playful touches. Hang a large chalkboard on the walls and supply plenty of colorful chalk. Fill a wooden wardrobe with costumes, clothes and shoes for playing "dress up."

Tags: space with, decor pieces, Decorate toddler, Decorate toddler girl, girl room, girl room with, lime green

Wednesday, June 29, 2011

Frame Plain Bathroom Mirrors

An unframed bathroom mirror makes the bathroom feel cold and plain.


Plain, unframed bathroom mirrors are a staple in many newly constructed homes or budget condos or apartments. A cookie-cutter solution, they provide the utilitarian purpose of providing the mirror without any style. Luckily, this oversight allows you to express your own personality and taste in the bathroom by framing the mirror yourself. An inexpensive home project, framing your plain mirror can add a big decorative punch to your bathroom space.


Instructions


1. Unscrew the clips that hold the mirror to the wall. Many times these clips are just precautionary and the mirrors are also glued to the wall. Carefully check to see if the mirror is glued to the wall. If not, squirt some construction adhesive behind the mirror and press the mirror tight to the wall to adhere it to the wall. Put the clips and screws back in, but be sure no glue has gotten near the screw holes, as you want to be able to remove the screws later. Allow it to cure overnight.


2. Remove the clips and screws the next day and clean the mirror. Use a tape measure to measure the length and width of the mirror. Your frame pieces will be affixed to the glass of the mirror so measure the outer margin of the mirrors face.


3. Purchase decorative molding from a home supply store. The molding should be at least 4 inches wide so it complements an average unframed bathroom mirror. A too-narrow molding looks flimsy.


4. Purchase four square decorative end pieces to go at the corners of the mirror. You will be making straight cuts on your molding, so the end pieces "cap" the molding and bridge the connections around the mirror, avoiding the need for mitered corners.


5. Measure the width of the end pieces. Multiply that by number by two.


6. Measure the length of your mirror glass once more. Subtract the width of the two end pieces and transfer that final number to your molding.








7. Mark and cut your molding with a straight cut. Repeat those steps to make your cuts for the height as well.


8. Lightly sand off any rough edges from the ends of the molding. Dry fit all the pieces on the glass of the mirror to make sure all the pieces fit properly. They should sit on the glass along the margin of the mirror, as you affix them to the mirror itself.


9. Cover a work area and lay out all your frame pieces. Brush away any dust or dirt and paint the pieces with your chosen glossy interior paint color. Paint the top and sides of the molding and end pieces thoroughly. Do two coats. Allow to dry.


10. Cut 3-inch strips of the heavy-duty hook-and-loop tape. Peel one side of the tape and adhere to the back of the molding pieces every 3 inches. Place one piece on each corner square.


11. Peel off the other side of the tape as it is attached to its opposite side on the molding and then carefully place the molding onto the glass in the correct position.


12. Place the corner molding pieces and the rest of the straight molding pieces in place the same way. Shift pieces slightly, if necessary, to get the perfect fit.

Tags: molding pieces, unframed bathroom, your molding, bathroom mirror, clips screws, frame pieces, glass mirror

Frame For Sliding Closet Doors For Bedrooms

Sliding doors make it easier to access a closet in a tight space.


Sliding doors are a good option for a shallow, long closet. Sliding doors make it easy to reach stored items and do not require any additional room to open them, so they work well in a tight space. It is best to have the doors picked out, before you begin the project, because you will need to know the size so you can build a door frame that will fit the doors. Purchasing pre-built doors can save you money and time, as opposed to having them custom-built or building them yourself.


Instructions


1. Measure the size of the sliding doors with the track system. The package should say how big the door frame needs to be, but it is a good idea to double-check before you build the doorway. Measure the size of the wall frame to be built for the doors. You need the length of the wall and the distance from the floor to the ceiling then subtract 4 inches for the stud pieces.


2. Cut 2-by-4s with a circular saw for the frame pieces. You will need two pieces that are the length of the wall for the top and bottom of the wall frame. You will need enough stud pieces so they are spaced every 16 inches across the length of the wall, except where the sliding doors will be. You will need one piece the length of the space for the door frame, and you will need enough 2-by-4s that measure the difference between the top of the door frame and the ceiling less 4 inches spaced every 16 inches along the length of the door frame.








3. Build the wall frame by laying out the length pieces, which will be the top and bottom of the wall frame, and two of the stud pieces to form a square. The 4-inch side of wood will go flush against the floor and ceiling when you complete the frame. Use two nails per each end of the stud and nail the studs into place. Make sure the corners are square then nail the remaining studs into place every 16 inches and leave a space where the doors will go. Nail two studs into place at each end of the door frame. Nail the piece for the door frame in place at the correct height then nail the shorter stud pieces into place along the top of the closet door frame. This holds the door frame in place.


4. Put the wall up. Nail it into the floor and ceiling joists on either side of each stud. If you are attaching the wall frame to an existing wall, you need to attach it to a stud, which you can locate with a stud finder. Nail it into place every 18 inches from floor to ceiling. Use a handsaw to cut out the piece of the wall frame where the closet doors will go after you have nailed the wall frame into place. Paint the door frame.


5. Install the track for the sliding doors by screwing the bottom strip and the top strip into place. Measure and mark where you need to screw the frame into place so that the tracks line up. Place the doors inside the tracks after you have finished the walls for the closet.

Tags: door frame, into place, wall frame, will need, every inches, floor ceiling

Install A Bathroom Fan Timer

You'll be smiling when your wall switch timer is installed and working properly.


If you have a bathroom fan that is left on for hours, consider removing the switch for the fan and replacing it with a timer. You can buy a new wall switch timer online or at your local electrical supply store, but make sure it is made to fit in a single-pole wall switch box. The timers come in all different styles, from simple 30-minute timers to 24-7 programmable models, so choose the features that suit your needs best.


Instructions


1. Turn off the circuit breaker for your bathroom fan.


2. Remove the fan switch cover by removing the two screws in the switch cover. Remove the two screws holding the switch to the switch box, and pull the switch out from the wall.








3. Unfasten the negative (black), positive (white) and ground (copper) wires by unscrewing them from the fan switch.


4. Fasten the three wires to the wall switch timer screws, according to the enclosed instructions.


5. Fasten the wall switch timer to the switch box with the enclosed screws.








6. Place the wall switch timer cover in place over the timer, if it is separate from the timer, and screw it into place.


7. Turn on the circuit breaker.

Tags: wall switch, switch timer, wall switch timer, circuit breaker, switch cover

Tuesday, June 28, 2011

Repair A Leaking Bathroom Sink

A sink can leak but can be fixed easily.


There are several reasons a bathroom sink can leak. One of the most common reasons is that water gets on the counter and seeps through where the bowl attaches to the vanity countertop. Another common reason is that the faucet has become loose and allows water to leak. Both of these problems can be fixed for little money and a small investment of time.


Instructions


1. Tighten the faucet to the sink top by tightening the nuts on the faucet stems under the sink. Use a basin wrench to snug the nuts, but be careful not to overtighten them or the faucet body may crack.


2. Pour some water at the edge of the sink where it meets the vanity top and inspect under the sink to see if water is leaking through.


3. Cut out the old caulk from around the bowl with a utility knife if water is leaking from the edge of the bowl.








4. Clean the area around the bowl completely with mineral spirits on a rag.








5. Apply the caulk evenly around the bowl where it meets the vanity top. Spread the caulk with a finger to make an even bead that fills the crack between the bowl and the countertop.


6. Clean any stray caulk on the counter and the bowl with mineral spirits on a rag. Let the caulk dry for 24 hours before getting it wet.

Tags: around bowl, bowl with, meets vanity, mineral spirits, sink leak

Paint Over Sheetrock In A Bathroom

Do not worry about sanding when you have sheetrock walls.


If you have a bathroom with newly installed sheetrock, you need not leave those walls white. You can paint sheetrock using your favorite interior wall paint. However, you should keep ventilation in mind when designing or renovating any bathroom space as moisture can lead to hazardous mold growth. In this case, you will have to hire a professional to install new sheetrock.


Instructions


1. Spread a drop cloth on the floor, making sure the cloth lines the bottom of the wall where you will be painting.








2. Line the baseboards and the upper trim with painter's tape to protect these areas from paint.








3. Open the paint can by prying open the top of the can with a screwdriver. Mix the paint with a paint stirrer. Pour the paint into the paint tray.


4. Dip a trim brush in the paint and paint the areas below the crown molding and above the baseboards. Your roller brush may not be able to access these areas as well as a trim brush can.


5. Stick a roller brush into the paint, gently dipping it in the pool of paint and pulling it up to the top of the tray to roll it over the paint-catching grails.


6. Roll the paint on the sheetrock by painting lines in the shape of the letter W. Move backward over the letter and fill in the spaces in between the letter. Repeat this process until the entire wall is painted. Smooth out any lines left by the trim brush by rolling the roller brush across the top and bottom of the sheetrock.

Tags: roller brush, trim brush, into paint, paint sheetrock, these areas

Frame A Bathroom Mirror

Add value to your home by giving your bathroom mirror a custom finish. Follow these steps to dress up a featureless sheet of glass without ever having to take it off the wall.


Instructions


1. Measure the perimeter of the mirror.


2. Choose crown molding from a hardware store. Molding can be primed, stainable or even made from foam. Purchase about one foot more than the perimeter of the mirror.


3. Saw the molding into four pieces with mitered edges. Measure and make the cuts so that the outside edge of the molding will line up with the edges of the mirror when placed on top of the mirror.


4. Stain or paint the molding, if desired.


5. Apply molding directly to the surface of the mirror using adhesive. Voila! A beautifully framed mirror now hangs in the bathroom!

Tags: perimeter mirror

Soundproof A Bedroom For Drums

Soundproof a Bedroom for Drums


The multi-piece drum set may be the musical backbone of most contemporary pop ensembles, but as anyone who's ever lived with a drummer knows, it wasn't exactly made with sleeping quarters in mind. Trying to keep this noisy set of instruments in your bedroom is sometimes a necessity, but it can create an annoyance for other residents of your house or apartment building. With a basic understanding of acoustics and sound dampening, you can minimize or eliminate the sound that escapes your room without losing your ability to practice in it.


Instructions


1. Move the drum set to the center of the room. This will create the most distance on all sides between the drum and anyone listening from the other side of the walls, minimizing the sound that travels from the bedroom to other areas of the house.


2. Put carpet or a thick rug on the floor if the room has a hardwood or other smooth-surface floor. Try to cover as much of the floor as possible, and add an extra layer of small area rugs or carpet samples beneath the set for best results. Not only will this absorb sound, it will prevent the vibration from traveling directly through the floorboards.


3. Install a threshold beneath the door to prevent sound from traveling through this empty space. Use a piece made of soft materials (such as rubber) that can form a good seal. If you are unable to make this alteration where you live, stuff cloth in the crack between the door and the floor.


4. Apply soundproofing foam to the walls. This is a special material used by professionals to soundproof practice and recording areas. You can buy this foam locally from interior design companies, or order it online at sites like Soundprooffoam.com or Soundproofing.org. You can attach this foam using temporary wall adhesive strips for easy removal. If you need a cheaper option, regular insulating foam will also absorb a fair amount of sound, as will paper-fiber egg cartons, hung round-side out on the wall.








5. Keep soft goods and furniture in the room. Couches, beds, draperies, stuffed animals, or any items made of soft cloth will absorb and muffle the sound in the room. Don't forget the ceiling, where you can hang light, printed cloth tapestries using thumb tacks.


6. Cover flat, hard surfaces with cloth wherever possible. Even things like desks and tables can act as resonant sounding boards that will reflect and amplify the sound of your drums.


7. Prepare windows to absorb sound. Install double panes if possible, and make sure windows are properly sealed and remain closed during practice. Like the other flat surfaces, the glass will reflect sound, so cover them, and use curtains rather than blinds, the thicker the better.

Tags: absorb sound, Bedroom Drums, from traveling, made soft, sound that, sound will

Monday, June 27, 2011

Organize A Child'S Bedroom

Once your child moves out of the crib and into a big bed, you'll need to set up a system for your child's room. Such a system will not only enable her to find the things she needs--clothes and shoes, for example--but it will also help her learn to clean up her room herself. It's a great way to set good habits now, before the years of rebellion hit.


Instructions








1. Identify which clothes go where. Use pictures and letters for younger children, or just letters for older children. Label each drawer with its contents--socks and underwear, short-sleeved tops, long-sleeved tops and so forth.


2. Organize toys clearly. Set up a system of baskets or clear, plastic tubs that are labeled with pictures and letters. This way, your child can see easily which toys live in which baskets or containers.


3. Work with your child every time he puts things away initially to ensure that he understands that trains go in the basket with the train picture, Legos in the basket with the Lego picture, dress up clothes in the bin with the magic wand and so forth.


4. Create a library space. For younger children, this may be a simple basket full of books and a chair. For older children, this might include a computer, desk, chair, lamp and reference material.


5. Put a hamper in a location that your child can find easily. You don't want dirty clothes left on the floor and it's easier to set up a habit of clothing going in the hamper at the age of 5 than it is at 15.


6. Determine a standard location for children to keep their homework folder (for elementary students) or homework pile (for older kids). This way, they can scan quickly when rushing out in the morning if they've forgotten to put completed work in their backpack.


7. Put up a few hooks or a shelf with hooks. Your child is likely to have sports equipment (rackets or mitts) or every day jackets that she'll want to grab quickly. Since these items don't always fit neatly in a box, make sure you provide a place to put them to keep them off the floor.

Tags: your child, basket with, children this, older children, pictures letters, younger children

Fix & Replace A Bathroom Fan Motor

If your bathroom vent fan stops working or starts making noise, turn it off, tape the switch in the off position and replace it. Bathroom fans have a low starting torque which means they are easily jammed by dirt, debris or worn bearings. When it cannot turn, the motor heats up very quickly and can ignite the dust that collects around the motor. A motor costs about the same as the entire fan assembly, but replacing just the motor can save you time and the misery of crawling around the attic if the fan assembly is in good shape.


Instructions


Removing the Motor


1. Turn off all the power. For safety sake it's best to turn off the entire circuit and not just the wall switch. Turn on the wall switch to make sure you have the right circuit breaker turned off. Turn off the wall switch again. I'm paranoid, so I tape the wall switch off while I'm working.


2. Remove the fan grill. It's usually held in place by a couple of screws and some sort of spring retainer.


3. Clean the dust off the motor. You should be able to find a model number and brand on the fan housing or on the motor itself. Write down the name of the manufacturer and the model number. Don't order a new motor yet, until you get the old one out. If other parts of the fan are damaged, you might need to replace them.


4. Unplug the fan motor from its power wires. Write down what color wires on the motor were attached to which wires from the house circuit.


5. Remove the motor, the attached fan blade and the supporting plate from the housing. A couple of tabs or screws are all that hold the motor in place.


6. Remove the fan from the motor shaft. This can be difficult. Over time, fan blades can adhere to the fan shaft due to heat and corrosion. It's usually held in place by a screw or is pressed onto the shaft. If you damage the fan, it's not expensive to replace--$3 to $10.


Replacing the new motor


7. Buy a new motor. Your home improvement store or an appliance store might have the motor in stock or be able to special order it for you. You may get quicker service by ordering it over the Internet. Simply search for the manufacturer or search "bathroom fan motor" and the brand name.


8. Reattach the fan blade to the motor shaft with the screw or press it into place--whichever way it's designed to work.


9. Reverse the procedure you used to remove the fan motor. Find the tabs or screw holes and line up the motor with them.


10. Screw or snap the motor and fan assembly into place. Tighten the screws or make sure the tabs lock into place.


11. Attach the wires to the motor in the same way your notes say they were connected before. It's best to replace old wire connector nuts with fresh new ones while you're replacing things. Nothing's more frustrating than to get the whole thing back together and realize the old nut came loose. A new 10-cent wire nut can save you a lot of frustration and reassembly later.


12. Make one last visual inspection inside the fan housing, then snap or screw the grill back into place. Flip on the power and turn on the switch to test the new fan.

Tags: wall switch, into place, held place, make sure, model number, motor motor, motor shaft

Friday, June 24, 2011

Refinish A Teak Dining Room Table

Refinishing your teak table can restore its appearance.


Teak is a type of hardwood native to Southeast Asia, and is used in furniture construction. Like all pieces of furniture, the finish on a teak dining room table will become worn over time. When this happens, you can give the table a bright new look by refinishing it. Refinishing the table is a fairly low-cost, straightforward project that can restore the luster of your dining room table, allowing it to be the centerpiece of your dining room set for years.


Instructions


1. Move the table to a workspace that is well-ventilated and has plenty of light. Place a dropcloth underneath the table.


2. Clean the table with a furniture cleaner to remove any old wax or polish, allowing you to get to the old finish more easily.


3. Strip the old finish, using an orbital sander. Run the sander over the surface of the table, allowing the sander to do the work. Don't press down too hard, as you may damage the wood. Continue sanding the table until the wood looks like new, with no signs of weathering. You can also use a chemical stripping agent. Generally, you'll apply a liberal amount of the stripping agent to the surface of the table and wait for it to soften the old finish. Scrape the old finish off with a plastic scraper with rounded corners, then wipe the table down with stripper wash to clean any remaining residue.


4. Sand the surface down to the bare wood with a sanding block, then wipe the table down with a tackcloth to remove any debris.


5. Apply teak oil to a dry rag and begin to cover the wood one section of the table at a time, applying the teak oil until the entire table has been covered.


6. Add a second coat of teak oil to the table after the first coat has dried.








7. Wipe the table down with a clean cloth to remove any excess oil. Allow the oil to set for about an hour.

Tags: down with, table down, table down with, dining room, dining room table

Ideas For Dining Room Bench Seating

Benches are not just for picnics.


When you mention benches, most people conjure up images of plain hard wood seating, for example, picnic and park benches. However, there is a world of benches that many have never seen or imagined. There are backless benches, padded and upholstered ones, wooden ones with painted images, and some with under-the-seat storage. Any of these make for interesting, attractive dining room seating.


Using Benches in the Dining Room


Some people think that benches are too casual for a formal dining room, but they can, with the proper design mix, make a beautiful, inviting table. There is also some debate about whether you should use only one bench on one side, with chairs on the opposite side, or a bench on both sides. Whichever you prefer, place host and hostess chairs at the ends.


Benches in a Small Space


A perfect upholstered bench for a small dining room


If you have a small dining room, use a bench to free up seating space for more guests. The fact is that you can seat almost twice as many guests on a bench than you can with chairs. Benches can easily do double duty as extra seating in your living area. A useful idea is to build in a bench, with a cushion on top and storage space underneath, on one wall of your dining room.


Banquettes in the Dining Room


Banquette seating in a fine restaurant or your home


If you've ever dined at an upscale restaurant and been seated along the wall, then you know what a banquette is. For those of you who haven't, a banquette is an upholstered bench with a back that is against a wall. You can make it as simple or as luxurious as you wish by using different fabrics that match or complement your chairs.


Wooden Benches


Wooden benches can be as simple and casual or as ornate and formal as your dining room table. If you cannot match the style of your table legs with the bench's, have a bench custom made. Sometimes a very plain bench, such as a Parsons, mixes very well with more elaborate furniture styles. Try to either blend or match the finishes or paint the wood to accent your total look.

Tags: dining room, dining room, bench with, small dining, small dining room, upholstered bench

Inspiration For Guest Bedroom Ideas







A guest bedroom


Decorating a guest bedroom can seem like a high-pressure task. Most people want the space to look stylish yet relaxing and want to leave their guests with a good lasting impression. In fact, some people spend more time looking for inspiration for guest bedroom ideas than they do for their master bedrooms.


Color


The color palette used for your guest bedroom should be stylish and attractive, yet relaxing and calming. Avoid using colors that can overstimulate the senses such as red, bright yellow, lime green, neons and all "hot" colors like hot pink. If you do use these colors in your guest bedroom, use them sparingly and in small quantities.


If you are going with a certain decorating style, the color scheme you use will depend on that. However, if you just want to decorate using color without the restrictions of any particular decorating style, be careful to choose colors that compliment each other well.


Decorating Styles


Guest bedrooms should be relaxing, inviting and attractive. The idea is to help your guests feel at home and comfortable. The ambiance of the guest bedroom will have a lot to do with the impressions your guest leave with.


Popular decorating styles for guest bedrooms include contemporary, Victorian, neoclassical, English, French Country and rustic. Your guest bedroom does not have to match the decorating style of the rest of your house, especially since it will typically be closed from view when not in use.


Furniture


The essential furniture that should be in a guest bedroom include a bed, bed table, nightstand or side table, dresser drawer and lamp. Additional furniture pieces that make a guest room more welcoming include a bookcase with magazines and books, a television stand with a small TV and additional, comfortable seating.


Make sure to use only two woods to decorate your guest bedroom to keep the look of the room pulled together. The tones of the woods should be complimentary. If you are using metal furniture, use one tone of metal throughout the room.


Accessories


Elements that look great in a guest bedroom include decorative wall clocks, wall hangings, throws, colored bins and containers, and simple vases. Coordinate the room's accessories with its decorating style and color palette for the best effect. For example, do not put contemporary accessories in a Victorian guest bedroom;even if they match the room in color, they will look completely out of place since the themes are so different.

Tags: guest bedroom, decorating style, your guest, bedroom include, color palette

Thursday, June 23, 2011

Create A Cozy And Welcoming Bedroom

Create a Cozy and Welcoming Bedroom


Your bedroom should be a restful retreat; a place where you can get away from the stress of the workday and relax in total comfort. If your bedroom does not sound like the bedroom in the above description, then get to work redecorating it so you can have a the cozy, welcoming bedroom of your dreams.


Instructions


1. Splurge a bit. If you have a little extra money, go ahead and spend it on yourself--you deserve it. The bedroom is probably the only room in the house that is exclusively for you, not for your guests or other family members. Treat yourself to cozy comfort. Nothing says comfort like deluxe sheets, pillows and comforters.


2. Add your favorite things. To make your bedroom truly welcoming, you need to fill it with the things that delight your senses the most. Forget about trying to copy modern trends, or your sister's shabby-chic bedroom. Instead, fill it with the colors and accessories you love most.


3. Add softness and scent. Cozy means comfortable. Make sure you have a high-quality bed and mattress, as well as lots of plush throw pillows. A warm, soft rug should cover up a hardwood floor and a scented candle will make the room even more inviting.








4. Add patterns and textures. Too much of one color can make a room feel cold and bland. Instead, try mixing patterns and colors. Add pillows with different textures as well. The combination of patterns and textures will fill the room with warmth.


5. Get rid of or hide practical items that don't need to be out in the open. Tuck that laundry hamper out of sight, your shoes under the bed, (don't forget to make that bed) and consider banishing the TV from the room. Leave only the things that create a warm, relaxing, cozy and welcoming feel.

Tags: cozy welcoming, Cozy Welcoming, Create Cozy, Create Cozy Welcoming, fill with, make room

Fix Noise In A Bathroom Ceiling Fan

Ceiling fans make room temperatures more uniform.


A noisy ceiling fan can be a distraction, but there are ways to reduce noise in your bathroom ceiling fan. Although these fans are efficient at circulating air, they can sometimes wobble because screws loosen over a period of time. However, you will be able to repair your ceiling fan yourself.








Instructions


1. Turn the fan off and check to see if the fan's canopy touches the ceiling. If it does, it must be adjusted. Tighten screws in the motor housing, as well as those holding the fan blade bracket to the motor hub.


2. Tighten screws that hold the globe and light fixture, if your ceiling fan has lights attached to it. You should check your ceiling fan after completing each step to see if it continues to generate a loud noise.








3. Install the silencer band over the neck of the fan globe and tighten screws in the lamp holder.


4. Turn the fan on and take note of any other problems. Keep your fan clear of dust and other debris, and check to see if something is blocking your fan's blades.

Tags: your ceiling, Tighten screws

Clean Food Stains On Velvet Dining Room Chairs

Remove food stains on velvet chairs with soap or solvent.


Velvet chairs lend a sophisticated look to your dining room, but over time, food falls on the chairs and leaves behind stains. Velvet cleaning is usually handled by professionals or dry cleaners, since the fabric is prone to further damage from improper cleaning methods. With the proper tools, though, you can remove stains on velvet chairs yourself, and your chairs and dining room will look like new.


Instructions


1. Clean up as much of the spilled food as possible with paper towels. The food will stain the chair less if you remove it quickly.


2. Fill a bucket with warm water and dish detergent. Stir the soap and water with your hand for a few seconds. Wet a towel with the soapy water.








3. Dab the soapy water on the food stain. As you dab, the stain starts to disappear. Use a dry towel to soak up excess water. Let the chair dry.


4. Apply dry cleaning solvent if the stain does not respond to soapy water. Wet a soft brush with the solvent. Rub the brush across the stain in the direction of the chair's nap. The nap refers to the way the velvet fibers naturally lie. Let the dry cleaning solvent dry on the velvet chair.


5. Rub the previously stained area with a clean, soft brush after the spot dries.

Tags: soapy water, cleaning solvent, dining room, soft brush, stains velvet, stains velvet chairs, velvet chairs

Wednesday, June 22, 2011

Why Do Roaches Get In Your Bathroom

Understand why cockroaches are drawn to certain areas of your home to keep them out.


An essential part of preventing an infestation of a certain insect in your home is to learn what draws that insect into your home to begin with. Insects are drawn indoors usually by choice rather than by accident, so understanding what attracts insects into your home and acting to eliminate those attractions can prevent the infestation altogether and can thus prevent your needing to resort to potentially toxic pesticide chemicals in order to control the infestation. Cockroaches, drawn to the bathroom, is a classic example of one of these attractions.


Insects and Bathrooms


Iowa State University Extension Entomologist Donald Lewis notes that a common misconception among homeowners is that insects are more common in the bathroom than other rooms in the house because huge insect populations thrive in sewer systems and insects therefore find their way into bathrooms via sink faucets, bath drains, shower heads and the like. Rather, insects are in general are probably no more common in the bathroom than in other parts of the house; we simply observe them in the bathroom more frequently since they tend to fall into sinks and bathtubs and are unable to escape.


Cockroaches


Cockroaches travel indoors because they are seeking food, water or shelter, or some combination of the three. Thus, any room in the house that has more water appliances such as the kitchen, a basement with plumbing or the bathroom may be more prone to attract roaches than are other rooms in the house. Additionally, as Lewis points out, roaches are also likely to fall into bathtubs, showers and sinks and to not be able to escape. This means that we may see more roaches in the bathroom than we see in other rooms, but that does not necessarily that there are more roaches in the bathroom than in other areas.


Preventive Measures


Armed with the knowledge of why roaches are attracted indoors in the first instance, prevention of a cockroach infestation is made much easier. Eliminating any sources of excess moisture can compel cockroaches already inside your home to leave and can prevent roaches outside from coming indoors. Similarly, being scrupulous about cleaning up spilled food and crumbs, which roaches eat, can force them to travel elsewhere in search of food. Roaches also prefer to reside in dark, secluded areas that are not frequented by humans, so cleaning these areas regularly can perturb the roaches to the point that they will leave.








Chemical Controls


Serious infestations should be treated with a carefully designed pesticide program. Avoid "bomb"-style aerosol foggers as they are only marginally effective. Instead, look for bait insecticides as well as contact spray insecticides and pesticide powders as they are more effective at removing a roach infestation. Whatever type of pesticide you choose to use, follow the manufacturer's application instructions meticulously and use the smallest amount possible to achieve the desired insecticidal result.

Tags: than other, your home, bathroom than, bathroom than other, other rooms, than other rooms, bathroom more

Decorate A Round Dining Table

A round table in the dining room is the perfect shape for easy communication and the passing of food. While four people can be seated comfortably around a 48-inch table, a 60-inch table will allow more room for dishes and decorations. For a spacious, comfortable feel, make sure there is at least 42 inches of space between the table and walls to allow for walking behind chairs. Round tables have a larger footprint in a room, so measure your space and plan accordingly to create a functional and decorative eating area.


Instructions


1. Position round place mats around the table, one at each chair. Because round mats fit nicely against the edge of a round table, they will provide more space in the center of the table.


2. Put round charger plates on top of the place mats. Charger plates are small platters, slightly larger than a dinner plate, and available in many materials, textures, colors and styles. The round shape of the charger plates will further enhance the round shape the of table and fit tight to the edge of the table, leaving more room at the center.


3. Set your table with square plates and bowls, silverware and glassware to add visual interest. The square plates against the round charger plates and place mats will provide a decorative contrast.








4. Add napkins and round napkin rings. Round napkin rings will complement the other round elements on the table.








5. Choose an oblong vase for the centerpiece to make the table appear longer and wider. Add candles of various heights in various shapes around the vase to further accentuate the roundness of the table.

Tags: charger plates, place mats, charger plates place, more room, napkin rings

Fix Dining Room Chairs

Finding a vintage tables and chairs set at a local auction or antiques store --- and for a steal -- can open up exciting possibilities for redecorating your formal dining room. But vintage table and chair suites often come with a downside: the chairs may be rather rickety and worse for wear. You can often restore dining chairs with some simple tools and a little knowledge of furniture restoration.


Instructions








1. Diagnose the problem. The most common problem is a loose joint. Lay down on the floor next to a chair. Have an assistant lean on the chair back and sit and move in the chair. Watch for joints that seem to have too much "give." Inspect the four major joints where the legs meet the chair seat frame during this testing. Look at the pieces that cross-brace the legs. Examine the joints where the seat back meets the seat. You should not be able to see any movement at any of these joints.


2. Move the chair to a workbench. Inspect any loose joints further; discover the reasons a joint has lost its fastness. A mortise-and-tenon joint (formed by fitting a tenon peg inside a mortised cavity) may be out of alignment. A mortise-and-tenon joint may also no longer fight tightly together. One of the spindles or cross-braces may be cracked or broken.


3. Check the leg joints. Look for wooden blocks or metal angle irons that may connect the legs to the seat frame. Bolts or screws can become loose over time. Try to tighten the nut on a bolt or a wood screw and see if this stabilizes the chair.


4. Replace or repair any broken pieces. Chairs need all their spindles and cross braces. If one of these spindles is broken, gently remove it from the chair. It is nearly impossible to reliably repair a cracked or broken spindle: ask a local woodcraftsman to make a copy of the spindle using a turning lathe. If a spindle has broken off and a tenon peg remains in the mortise hole, grind the peg out of the hole using a drill and a drill bit the size of the hole.


5. Remove all the old glue if possible using warm vinegar. Apply new glue to all joints. Use woodcraftsman wood glue.








6. Clamp the furniture. Use several special furniture clamps to force all the joints of the chair into tight alignment. You can often rent these furniture clamps at tool rental stores. Clamp the chair from at least two, and ideally four, directions. If you do not have enough clamps to cover all the joints in the chair, start by clamping the legs and the seat. Move on to legs and cross braces, then seat and back, and finally any back cross bracings. Make these clamps very tight. Let the glue dry overnight.

Tags: cracked broken, cross braces, furniture clamps, joints chair, joints where, legs seat

Tuesday, June 21, 2011

Replace A Bathroom Exhaust Fan Light

Replace a Bathroom Exhaust Fan Light


Exhaust fans in bathrooms expel wet air from the room, helping prevent mildew and moisture damage to your walls. The fans have been around long enough that you might find yourself having to replace one in your bathroom. Replacing an existing bathroom exhaust unit is a lot easier than installing one from scratch, and should take only an hour or so. Make sure to measure the opening of the old unit and don't get a new one that's smaller than that, because you'll be left with a gap in your ceiling. This plan assumes you can access the unit from the attic above the bathroom.








Instructions


1. Turn off all power to the room.








2. Set your ladder under the current fan unit. Remove the vent plate that's covering it. It will likely be held on by screws or by a wire clip. Take out the light bulb.


3. Go to the attic, above the bathroom, and locate the exhaust fan unit, which will be attached to a floor joist and facing down into the bathroom. Detach the electrical wires going to the unit by unscrewing the wire nuts. Detach the exhaust hose from the unit, loosening the screw on the metal band that's holding it there. Unscrew the screws holding the unit to the joist. Pull the unit away from the floor, exposing the square hole looking down into the bathroom.


4. Set your new unit in place in the same position as the old one. If the face of the new unit is bigger than the old one was, trace on the drywall around the perimeter of the face with your pencil, then use your jigsaw to widen the hole at the line. Affix the unit to the joist, screwing in the support brackets with the provided screws.


5. Reconnect the wiring as it was connected to the previous unit, using wire nuts to make the connections and wrapping each one in electrician's tape. Reconnect the exhaust hose to the unit, if possible. If the exhaust hose from the old unit doesn't fit on the new unit, use the new exhaust hose that came with the unit and string it out through the hole in the exterior wall where the previous hose was.


6. Turn the power back on. In the bathroom, install the light bulb, then put the new vent cover over the hole.

Tags: exhaust hose, above bathroom, attic above, attic above bathroom, Bathroom Exhaust, Bathroom Exhaust Light, down into

Fix A Trickling Delta Bathroom Sink Faucet

Trickling faucets waste water, and the constant "drip drip drip" can keep you up at night. With a few simple tools and some replacement parts, you can repair a leaking Delta bathroom sink faucet in a few minutes. Consult your user's manual or your local home improvement store for the appropriate parts.


Instructions


1. Shut off the cold water and hot water valves before attempting to repair the faucet. They are typically located under the sink.


2. Remove the set screw that holds the handle in place with a 1/8-inch Allen wrench. Lift the handle to remove it and set it aside.


3. Twist the cap under the handle counterclockwise to remove it. To make it easier, press down on the ball stem that sticks out of the cap to relieve some of the tension the internal springs create.


4. Remove the cam assembly, a round piece with a triangle-shaped hole in it. There is also a seal that connects to the cam. When this seal becomes worn, it can allow water to trickle out of the handle base.


5. Remove the ball assembly from the faucet. The ball assembly can corrode or wear out and cause the faucet to leak from the spout. Replace the ball if it shows signs of wear.


6. Look inside the faucet and locate the black rubber seals. As these seals wear out, water can leak from the spout. Lift out the two seals and the springs directly beneath them with a flat-blade screwdriver or needle-nosed pliers. Replace the seals and springs.








7. Reassemble the faucet by reversing the previous steps. Open the hot and cold water valves and test the faucet.

Tags: ball assembly, cold water, drip drip, from spout, leak from, leak from spout, seals springs

Design Characteristics Of An Ada Bathroom







Since the 1990 passing of the Americans with Disabilities Act (ADA), many places have had to make their facilities ADA-compliant. One of the major areas that need to be looked at is the bathroom. The Act requires that all bathrooms be ADA-compliant and usable by people with disabilities.


Clearance Guidelines


An ADA restroom must be able to accommodate a person in a wheelchair. A minimum of a 5-foot diameter clear space for the wheelchair to turn around in is required, as well as a 30-inch-by-48-inch clear space underneath the sink so that a wheelchair can roll up to it. Also at least one stall if not more are required to be accessible by someone in a wheelchair.


Grab Bar Requirements.


A must-have for an ADA bathroom is the grab bars. Two grab bars are required around the toilet: one on the back wall that is 36 inches in length with the center line of the toilet being 12 inches from the wall, the other along the sidewall on the toilet, 42 inches in length and placed 12 inches from the corner. Both grab bars should be a minimum of 1 1/4 inches in diameter and a maximum of 2 inches in diameter.


Mirrors


Another must-have for an ADA-compliant restroom is a mirror. Every bathroom has at least one and an ADA bathroom has to have one that meets the following requirement: its bottom edge should not be higher than 40 inches above the finish floor. Many times the best solution for an ADA bathroom is to have a full-length mirror because everyone can use it.


Toilet Paper Holders


Toilet paper holders need to be the kind that does not have a controlled delivery. The folded-tissue dispensers are not recommended because they require a finger-pinching control that is not viewed as universally accessible to people with disabilities. Toilet paper holders are mounted no more than 36 inches from the back wall and they shall be centered at 19 inches above the finish floor.


Waste Receptacles


Another necessary item for a restroom is waste receptacles. For a waste receptacle to be ADA-accessible, the waste receptacles should have an opening between 15 inches and 48 inches above the finish floor. This allows wheelchairs to either pull forward in front of it or reach it from the side. The waste receptacles should not protrude more then 4 inches from the wall so that it does not become a hazard to blind people or interfere with any clear space requirements in front of sinks or aisles.

Tags: inches from, above finish, above finish floor, clear space, finish floor, grab bars, inches above

Monday, June 20, 2011

Fix A Leaky Price Pfister Bathroom Faucet

If your Price Pfister faucet is leaking it may be affecting your countertop. Water from faucet leaks cause mold and even rot in wooden cabinets. To fix these problems a simple repair is all you need. The Price Pfister bathroom faucet has an easy-to-remove handle and cartridge that makes replacing a worn or damaged cartridge simple. The entire project requires only minimal knowledge and about 10 minutes.


Instructions


1. Close the water lines leading into your faucet. Open the sink cabinets and turn both pipe valve handles to the closed position.


2. Loosen the base of the Price Pfister faucet handle by turning the whole base part counterclockwise. If the base is stuck, use a pair of large pliers and a towel to grip and turn the base. Once loose, unscrew and remove the whole base.


3. Grip the cartridge nut, a round nut immediately under the handle, with pliers and turn it counterclockwise to loosen it. Remove it by unscrewing it the rest of the way with your fingertips.








4. Pull the cartridge out and place a new one into the faucet. Only Price Pfister cartridges work in a Price Pfister faucet. Get the propel model number for your bath faucet to ensure success.


5. Replace the cartridge nut and tighten it. Slide the handle base back on and turn it to tighten it securely. Turn the water on and test the faucet. If the leak remains, perform the repair on the other side. Or take the handle off and tighten the cartridge nut to properly seat the cartridge.

Tags: Price Pfister, Pfister faucet, Price Pfister faucet, whole base

Fix A Leaky Onehandle Bathroom Faucet

One-handled bathroom faucets don't have the washers you find in other types of faucets. Instead, they rely on O-disks, cylinders, and inlet seals for operation. They develop leaks less often than old compression faucets and are easy to repair. Ball and cartridge faucets usually leak because of worn O-rings or other parts.








Instructions


Fix a Leaky Ball Faucet


1. Turn off the water supply by screwing the water line tap all the way to the right with your hand (usually found under the sink, or turn off the main line).


2. Unscrew the faucet handle, using a wrench. Lift the handle off with your hands. Take off the adjusting ring and cap found directly underneath the handle. Use pliers if necessary.


3. Remove the cam, cam washer, and rotaing ball with your fingers. These fit directly under the spout. Remove inlet seals and springs with needle-nose pliers.


4. Cut off the O-rings with a utility knife. These sit directly at the base of the faucet. Fit new O-rings snugly in place with your fingers.


5. Reassemble the faucet in the reverse sequence you used to take it apart. As you go, inspect each part. If a part appears worn, replace it.


Fixing a Leaky Cartridge Faucet


6. Turn off the water supply by screwing the water line tap all the way to the right with your hand (usually found under the sink, or turn off the main line).








7. Turn the set screw (on top of the handle) to the left with your hands to unscrew the handle. Remove the cartridge, which lies directly underneath the handle.


8. Remove the retaining cap (if the faucet has one), using needle-nose pliers. The retaining cap is just underneath the cartridge. Remove the spout with your hands. It will come off with a little tug.


9. Cut off the O-rings with a utility knife. These rings sit at the base of the faucet. Replace the O-rings. If the O-rings are in good condition, the problem may be the cartridge. If necessary, replace the cartridge.


10. Reassemble the faucet in the reverse sequence you used to take it apart.

Tags: with your, with your hands, your hands, base faucet, directly underneath

Apply Bathroom Caulking

A properly caulked bathroom will have clean corners.


Bathroom caulk finishes the bathroom and seals off all the hidden waterways where the shower, bath and sink water might otherwise drain, causing the dreaded mold. There is a wrong way and a right way to apply the caulk. One is a messy application that catches water and dirt, making a mess of your corners. The other is a smooth barrier that stays clean and dries quickly.


Instructions








1. Remove all the existing caulk. Use a scraper to get under an edge and pull it out. Try not to gouge any grout or fixture surfaces while scraping. Vacuum the gap left to get out any little bits of old caulk that might mess up the new application.


2. Wipe down the surfaces where the caulk is to be applied with rubbing alcohol. This will clean any bacteria or mold spores and create a dry surface the new caulk can bond with. Pour the alcohol onto a clean, dry rag and wipe the surface, turning the rag often for a clean surface. Typically, caulk is used around the tub and shower wall and floor, along the back of the sink, where the floors meet the wall and along shower doors where they intersect with the wall.


3. Cut the new tube of bathroom caulk with the utility knife at a 45-degree angle to create a 1/4-inch wide opening. Place the tube into the caulk gun and use the ratcheting handle to squeeze the caulk up to the opening of the tube.








4. Place the tip of the caulk tube into the corner at one end of the area that needs caulking and pull it back steadily while squeezing the handle and holding the gun at an angle to the crevice. The bead of caulk should only be about 1/4-inch thick, but wider opening will need a slightly larger bead. Apply one straight section at a time.


5. Dampen your index or middle finger and drag it along the bead so that the caulk is forced into the crack and there is a smooth caulk surface from one edge to the other. If the caulk builds up behind your finger as you drag it, lift it off and wipe your finger on a rag to get rid of the excess. Try not to go over the caulk too often and clean off any caulk that gets on the other surfaces. Make sure there are no gaps in the caulk line. It should look smooth and perfectly straight.


6. Dry the caulk for at least 12 hours before getting it wet. It needs to form a skin to repel the water before it can be water resistant.

Tags: caulk that, finger drag, often clean, tube into, your finger

Friday, June 17, 2011

What Is A Recommended Bathroom Scale







Old-fashioned analog scales aren't as accurate as digital.


Dieters, fitness enthusiasts and everyone watching their weight need accurate bathroom scales. Regular weigh-ins provide the data users need to make smart decisions about diet, activity levels and other lifestyle choices. If a bathroom scale is unreliable, it's much harder to keep things under control. There are a few things you need to know if you're in the market for a reliable bathroom scale.


Digital


According to Consumer Reports, digital scales are more accurate than analog scales. Out of 11 scales, the top four digital models were accurate to within 1 pound, 97 percent to 100 percent of the time. The best analog scales were this accurate only 13 percent of the time.


Weight Range


People with weights toward the upper limit of most scales' ranges -- about 300 pounds in most cases -- may wish to choose scales with expanded range. Bariatric scales measuring up to 400 or 500 pounds cost more than ordinary ones, but they can provide a more accurate weight measurement.


Features








Many digital scales come with extra features, such as body-fat indicators. These can greatly increase the price of the scale. They aren't always accurate. Consumer Reports suggests that no-frills scales are usually a better buy.

Tags: analog scales, Consumer Reports, digital scales, more accurate, percent time

Diy Outdoor Dining Table







Cedar will hold up well to the elements for many outdoor applications.


Outdoor dining tables come in handy for barbecues and other outdoor family events. They should be large enough to seat several people and must be able to withstand nature's elements. Treated lumber is often used for picnic tables and other outdoor tables, however cedar is preferred when it comes to the outdoor dining experience. Cedar is a soft wood that is easy to work with, has a pleasant natural scent and is durable enough for outdoor use.


Instructions








1. Lay two 28-inch boards flat and parallel. Space them 23 inches apart. Screw a 30-inch board perpendicularly to the 28-inch boards so the 30-inch edge is flush with the ends of the 4-by-4 boards. Screw the last 30-inch board to the other two 28-inch boards in the same fashion. The 2-by-6 boards will provide support to your table top.


2. Stand both sets of 4-by-4-inch boards upright so the 30-inch boards are parallel and 27 inches apart. Screw your 36-inch boards perpendicularly to the 30-inch edges of the 2-by-6-inch boards. The 36-inch boards should be parallel and spaced a ½-inch apart.


3. Screw one of your 2-by-8-inch boards to the 4-by-4-inch boards, so the 36-inch edge is flush with the table top. Screw the last 2-by-8-inch board to the opposite side in the same manner.


4. Apply the stain to your project and let dry according to instructions.

Tags: 28-inch boards, apart Screw, 30-inch board, 36-inch boards, 4-by-4-inch boards

Identify A Drexel Dining Chair

Drexel Heritage is an American furniture company that has been in existence since the beginning of the 20th century. The company has done much to further American furniture design and partnered with outside designers since the 1950s in order to create bold, new designs. Drexel dining chairs have changed in design and style over the years, but always are made from fine hardwood and with exquisite upholstery.


Instructions


1. Inspect the chair's quality and craftsmanship. If it is made of cheap wood, such as pine, or if it is not well put together, it is not a Drexel chair.


2. Look for an item number on the underside of the chair. Drexel dining chairs that are less than 40 years old have a six-digit number printed on the chair.








3. Contact the company through its website, www.drexelheritage.com,with the item number. Someone from Drexel will get back to you with the collection the chair comes from, if it is in fact a Drexel chair. They also may be able to tell you when it was produced.


4. Take the chair to an appraiser. If you cannot find an item number on the chair or if no one at the company recognizes the number, bring your dining chair to someone who is trained to identify and value antiques.

Tags: item number, American furniture, dining chairs, Drexel chair, Drexel dining chairs

Fix A Dripping Moen Wide Spread Bathroom Faucet

Moen widespread faucets have cartridge-style valves.


Moen widespread faucets are so called because the handles are separated from the spout without being visibly joined. The water supply lines connect to each individual handle, and the handles themselves join to the spout by means of flexible hoses hidden under the sink. Cartridges located in each of the handles control water flow. When the faucet leaks, the fault is usually with worn rubber O-rings or seals on the cartridges or valve inlets, but it can sometimes be a dirty or defective cartridge. You can fix most leaks by removing the cartridge.


Instructions








1. Turn off the water to the faucet by turning off the angle-stops, which are the shutoff valves sticking out of the wall under the cabinet. You only need to turn off the angle stop supplying one handle if you know which one is leaking. You can usually tell this by feeling whether the drip is hot or cold.


2. Remove the handle by unscrewing the nut. On some models, this is located on top of the handle, and you can unscrew it with a Phillips screwdriver. If the handle is a lever and you can't see the nut, it is located under the handle. You can unscrew it with an Allen wrench.


3. Unscrew the retaining nut holding the cartridge in place with channel-locking pliers. Wrap a rag around the nut before you grip it with the pliers to avoid damaging the finish.








4. Grip the valve stem of the cartridge with the pliers and pull it straight out. If it is stuck, re-attach the handle temporarily and use it to pull the cartridge out. Be sure to note the orientation of the cartridge. It will have to go back in the same way.


5. Examine the O-rings around the cartridge and replace them if they are worn. Use a slot screwdriver to pry out the seal around the inlet hole, if it is worn, and replace it. Replace the cartridge if it has cracks or excessive corrosion.


6. Insert the cartridge, or a replacement, in the same orientation it was in when you took it out. Screw on the retaining nut, then screw the handle back on.


7. Open the faucet, then turn the angle stop back on. Turn off the faucet and check for leaks.

Tags: angle stop, handle unscrew, handle unscrew with, Moen widespread, Moen widespread faucets, turn angle, turn angle stop

Thursday, June 16, 2011

Retile The Bathroom Shower







New shower tiles can change the color, style, and look of your shower.


Dirty, outdated, or broken tile around your bathroom shower can be distressing for someone who wants to create a feeling of relaxation in the bathroom. While you can update the room by adding new towels and shower curtains, the only real fix for bad tiles is to retile the bathroom shower. If you want to retile your bathroom, plan to devote an entire weekend to the project as the job is detailed and time-consuming.


Instructions


1. Remove the shower head and control knob, using a screwdriver as needed. Spread cardboard over the floor or shower pan to protect it from the sharp edges of the falling tiles.


2. Insert a chisel along the edge of where the tiles begin and hammer the chisel to knock the first tile loose. Work across a full row of tiles, switching to a flat bar as needed. Remove tiles up toward the ceiling and down to the floor with the chisel or flat bar until all tiles are removed. Work one wall at a time.


3. Spread a layer of mortar over the wall with your notched trowel to cover only the area you think you can finish in a day. An 8- to 10-square-foot area should only take an hour to tile.


4. Spread a smooth coat of mortar on the back of a tile with a margin trowel. Place your first tile along the bottom edge of the shower wall area starting at a point adjacent to a non-tiled wall instead of inside a corner of the shower.


5. Spread mortar over the back of the next tile and place it beside the first tile, leaving a 1/8- to-1/4-inch gap between the tiles. Continue adding tiles working in an imaginary grid pattern and consistent gaps between tiles. Make a second row above the first, and so on, until the shower is complete. Let the mortar dry overnight.


6. Mix the grout following the packaging instructions and add to a grout bag. Twist the large opening of the bag closed and use one hand to hold the twist shut. Place your other hand near the small opening along the tip of the bag to both squeeze and guide the tip.


7. Squeeze the grout from the tip opening of the bag and into the gaps between your tiles. Move your hands slowly as you squeeze to fill all of the gaps completely one line at a time. Overfilling the gaps is preferred to not squeezing out enough grout.








8. Run a grout float over the gaps to smooth the grout between the tiles and pull off excess. Wipe the excess off the float as often as needed to keep your work clean and avoid dropping grout on the floor. Let the grout dry according to the time listed on your packaging.


9. Remove the cardboard from the floor. Wet a sponge with warm water and wipe the tiles to pull off grout residue. Continue wiping the tiles repeatedly until the residue streaks are gone. Replace the shower head and control knob.

Tags: between tiles, first tile, bathroom shower, control knob, gaps between, head control

Decorating Ideas For A Purple Bedroom

Decorating Ideas for a Purple Bedroom


The color purple, once reserved for royalty, is now a versatile, favored color for interior design. Whether you like pale lilac, reddish purple or even eggplant purple-black, decorating your bedroom with your favorite shade of purple adds visual richness and may even make you feel like a king or queen.


Wall Stencil


Follow the example of a room shown in the article "Purple! Violet! Plum! Aubergine!" on the Apartment Therapy website, and festoon purple walls with an elaborate stencil in a repeating pattern. While the article shows pink designs on a royal purple wall, you can choose any color. White, silver, gold and yellow all make for bold contrast, while burgundy, black or brown blends in well with a darker shade of purple for a subtle effect. Stencil a fleur-de-lis or heraldry-inspired "lion rampant" design on the walls if you wish to reinforce the "royalty" association. Other ideas for stencil designs are hibiscus flowers and simple geometric designs.


Purple Bed


Spice up the bedroom with a lush velveteen purple bedspread and pillowcases. Bright purple works well for a teen bedroom, particularly when paired with animal print accessories. Those with more restrained tastes may opt for deep plum-purple sheets layered with a muted pinstripe bedspread.


Contrasting Color


Combine purple with a cheery contrasting color--or a cool, mellow accent color--for a dual-color decorating scheme that is easy to implement. Color possibilities include red, yellow, silver, gray and black. The mood created can range from silly to sophisticated, depending upon the colors you use and the accessories you add. The article "Master Bedroom: Bright Idea" on the Good Housekeeping website advises pairing two bright colors "to give your room a unique spark and charm" and suggests adding bedding in the contrasting color. Accessories you might pick in a contrasting color include curtains, area rugs, lamps, furniture and wall art.

Tags: bedroom with, contrasting color, Decorating Ideas, Decorating Ideas Purple, Ideas Purple

Decorate A Bedroom In A Primitive Country Style







Transform your bedroom into a primitive country style oasis.


Decorating in a primitive country style generally entails a lot of natural textures and colors in the home. Decorating in the bedroom is no different. Accessories play a large part in signifying primitive country décor, as well. The theme is usually characterized by a rustic feeling.








Instructions


1. Utilize rich earth tones such as terra cotta, deep green and natural wood colors to bring warmth to your bedroom walls by painting them. Add a small amount of sand to the paint while mixing to give the walls a textured feeling.


2. Opt for wood or stone tile flooring. If wood or stone is not in your budget, look for a laminate that imitates wood or stone. The natural look of the wood or stone enhances the primitive country style décor.


3. Place a country style rug on the floor for added warmth. This is a perfect opportunity to introduce complementary colors to your overall décor. Look for a rug that is predominantly natural colored with a small design in it.


4. Implement clean lines in your primitive country style décor. Choose a wooden frame bed without a lot of ornate carving and with a standard headboard. Simple, clean lines are what you need. Use throw blankets and pillows to add comfort and style to the bed.


5. Cover windows with floor-length cotton or calico weave curtains in a color that is complementary to your walls. The curtains can be pulled back with a plain sash or a small piece of rope. Avoid "fancy" fabrics such as satin, silk or chintz.

Tags: wood stone, country style, primitive country, primitive country style, clean lines, country style

Wednesday, June 15, 2011

Fix A Break In A Metal Dining Chair







You can repair a cracked metal chair in a few simple steps.


Folding metal chairs are commonly used as dining chairs when additional seating is required. A crack in a metal chair can pinch a person's leg or back and cause the chair to remain structurally unstable until you repair it. You do not have to be a metal welding expert to repair a cracked chair -- a welder would likely burn through the thin metal anyway.


Instructions


1. Sand the surface around the crack with an orbital sander equipped with 800-grit sandpaper to remove the enamel paint. Remove the paint around the cracks on both sides of the chair.


2. Create a slight V-groove the full length of the crack on both sides with a rotary tool equipped with a triangle-tipped grinder. Extend the groove past each end of the crack by 1/4 inch. Keep in mind that the metal is relatively thin, so you do not need to make the V-groove very deep.








3. Wipe the paint dust off the chair with a tack cloth.


4. Mix the two-part epoxy putty together and fill both sides of the crack with the filler. Wait 24 hours for the epoxy to dry.


5. Sand the surface of the epoxy putty flat with the surface of the chair. Use the orbital sander and the 800-grit sandpaper to complete this task.


6. Wipe the chair down with a tack cloth to remove dust and dirt.


7. Paint the repaired area with enamel spray paint in a color that matches the color of the chair.

Tags: both sides, 800-grit sandpaper, crack with, epoxy putty, equipped with

Dining Room Ideas For Mirrored Walls

Make a small dining room look larger with a mirrored wall.


Mirrored walls reflect both light and your room, which makes your space look bigger and brighter. Mirrored walls are particularly striking in a dining room. The mirror enhances the sparkle and gleam of your china, stemware and silver -- and a crystal chandelier reflected in mirror is absolutely dazzling.


Sheet Mirror Accent Wall


For a dramatic mirrored wall that visually doubles your space, opt for a floor-to-ceiling accent wall made from sheet mirror. The look works equally well with or without molding at the ceiling and floor, but it looks best on a wall uninterrupted by windows and doors.


Expect vertical seams where the sheets of mirror abut. The seams don't mar the overall look, but if they bother you, cover them with thin strips of molding. Apply a silver-leaf finish to make the molding strips all but disappear, or just paint them to match the rest of the room's millwork.


Sheet Mirror Over Wainscoting


Get the mirrored look in an architecturally distinguished dining room by hanging sheet mirror above the wainscoting. For the most elegant look, paint the wainscoting and ceiling molding with the same color of glossy paint; black, white and ivory are classic paint choices for woodwork.


For a similar effect, install sheet mirror above a chair rail. Paint the chair rail to match the other molding. Paint the wall beneath the chair rail in a different color, or hang wallpaper with metallic tracery.


Finish the room by hanging framed artwork on the mirrored walls, just as you would if the walls were plain. For a high-end, designer look, you can even hang framed mirrors on your mirrored walls.


Mirrored Tiles


Hang mirrored tiles for a grid-like wall effect. You can use them to cover an accent wall or your entire dining room. Unlike sheet-mirror accent walls, mirrored tiles create another optical effect when cut to fit around fireplaces, windows and doors. Use tiles measuring at least 12 inches square, and choose between plain or antiqued mirror. For retro-inspired decor, you can even opt for mirrored tiles with gold veins. Finish the look by installing clear or metallic rosettes at the junctions where the corners of the mirrors meet.


Mirrored Wall Panels


For an elegant mirrored look reminiscent of chic, Parisian homes, use panel molding to make raised wall panels and fit them with mirrors. Whether wide or narrow, vertically inclined, rectangular panels look the best with mirrored insets. Miter the panel molding at the corners for a clean-lined effect, or install carved or curving corners for a more ornate look. Paint the panel molding to match the rest of the trim in the room, or cover it with gold or silver leaf to enhance the mirrored effect.

Tags: chair rail, dining room, mirrored tiles, panel molding, sheet mirror

Remove Bathroom Wallboard







Take down shelves before tearing out wallboard.


Wallboard, or drywall, is made of fine gypsum particles pressed into flat panels and covered with a thick paper coating. When installed correctly, wallboard gives you a smooth wall in your bathroom that you can paint or wallpaper. If you're renovating your bathroom, removing the wallboard is one of the easier tasks, but it can be messy. You can't reuse the wallboard, it will come out in pieces.


Instructions


1. Remove cover plates from wall switches and outlets, and remove all other wall fixtures, including built-in shelves, wall lights and towel bars. Cover sinks, commodes and tub bottoms with old blankets or thick tarps to prevent scratches on the fixtures.


2. Rap on the wallboard, and listen for the solid sound that indicates that a stud lies beneath. Tap firmly on the wall with a hammer to break a hole between studs.


3. Grab the edge of the broken wallboard with gloved hands and pull outward vigorously. The wallboard will either come off the studs or break in pieces. Continue to pull as much off as possible. Break more holes with the hammer as needed.


4. Wedge a flat bar beneath bits of wallboard that are stuck under nails and pry them off the studs. The nails may remain in the studs, and you can remove them with the claw end of a hammer or with a nail bar.


5. Use a drill, fitted with a screw bit, if the wallboard was attached with screws. As the wallboard breaks away, you will see the screws sticking out of the studs. Tap on the head of a screw lightly with a hammer to knock off dried drywall compound, then use the drill to unscrew it.


6. Continue pulling, prying and breaking the wallboard until you've stripped all of it off the studs.

Tags: with hammer, wallboard will, your bathroom

Tuesday, June 14, 2011

Layout A Small Bathroom

Bathroom space, while an important part of the overall design, doesn't need to take a large amount of space. Small bathrooms can create an efficient and effective use of space, allowing more room for the remaining area. A smaller bathroom can be more adaptable in regard to placement in the overall floorplan. With proper planning of space-saving fixtures and floorspace, you can put the bathroom anywhere in the house.


Instructions








1. Research the minimum size requirements for bathrooms in your area. In many states a minimum square footage is required. You must have clearances around each fixture in the bathroom as directed by local ordinances.


2. Measure the dimensions of the chosen space. Write down the height, width and length of the space. Draw out a floor plan on graph paper using the written measurements. Use a legend that shows a 1-inch measurement and the corresponding conversion measurement either above or below it (example: 1 inch on paper equals 5 inches of floorspace).








3. Choose the fixtures you are installing. Choose pedestal sinks, wall-mounted toilets and walk-in showers to conserve space. Obtain the dimensions of each fixture: height, width and length. Use the conversion guide on the floor plan to accurately draw in the fixture's position. Manufacturer's specifications can be found on the fixture at the supply store.


4. Locate the water and heating supply lines for the bathroom. If you are placing the bathroom adjacent to the kitchen, attempt to have the bathroom sink on the same wall as the kitchen sink. Consult a plumber if you are unsure of the pipes locations or they require repositioning or additions.


5. Plan the shelving around the fixtures. Utilize overhead space above the toilet and sink. Remember to allow for headroom.

Tags: each fixture, floor plan, height width, height width length, width length